Friday, February 18, 2011

Southern Belles of Laredo

My parents have collected National Geographic issues for a very long time. They got a first subscription to the magazine as a present when they got married and have renewed is ever since. Whenever I visit, I love to flip through the latest ones that are lying around the main floor (the rest I classified for them a couple of years back, in the downstairs library). That is how I one day learned of Laredo's Martha Washington Pageant and their impressive gowns.


Once upon a time in Laredo was written by Mimi Swartz, Photographed by Penny De Los Santos, and published in the November 2006 edition of National Geographic. It presents Laredo in all its reality, with its lavish pageant and contrasting poverty. Although it makes is sad to learn of a place set in the modern world where the average income is 11,000$ (US) a year, and where the rich got richer and the poor are meant to be poor, I will focus on the amazing dresses the “Marthas” wear on their debut night.

Ready to Sparkle, Photograph by Wyatt McSpadden, Visions of Grandeur, AAA Texas Journey, February 2009

Laredo's Martha Washington Society was founded in 1939, for the ladies of the old families of Laredo. The Martha Washington pageant is their version of a debutante ball, but whereas Northern Debs wear white dresses and long gloves, “Marthas” wear “colonial” or Southern Belle dresses (many article talk of "typical 18th century" dresses, but we both know that is wrong) so adorned with beading, embroidery and ruffles, they can weight up to 80 pounds and cost 30,000$! (And you though the Say Yes to the Dress brides with their 10,000$ dresses were crazy! – Or is that just me?)

Hand Beading of a dress

There are some options for “Marthas” to cut down on the price of their dresses. One is to participate in the hand embroidery and beading of the dress they helped design. Another is to “recycle” the dress worn by their mother or grand-mother by adding more ruffles, beads, sequins and lace.

Hoop Dreams, Photograph by Penny De Los Santos, Once Upon a Time in Laredo, National Geographic, November 2006

“Marthas” must learn to walk, dance and curtsy in these dresses; they practice with their partners, wearing only their corsets and hoop skirts, before adding the weight of the gown. In a time when all girls grow up wearing jeans and tee-shirts, becoming a princess might seem like hard work!

Martha & George Washington

The ball is always held on a Friday. Influential members of society are chosen to play the parts of Martha and George Washington. They are introduced first, and then followed by the “Marthas” and their escort. Each plays a character contemporary to the President, and as they are presented to the public, their “pedigree” is announced: how long has the family been established, whether their grandfather ever played George Washington or their mother was ever a “Martha”, if they were once and “abrazo” child in a local ceremony of friendship where children are sent across the international bridge to embrace a child from the other side of the frontier, that sort of thing. They are expected to bow down very low turning their heads to the side and making their ear parallel to the floor, all the while balancing the curls piled on top of their heads.

Sparkling Splendor, Photograph by Penny De Los Santos, Once Upon a Time in Laredo, National Geographic, November 2006

Once everyone has been presented, then the ball can begin. Finally, months of practice are put to the test as the “Marthas” dance the night away with their escort.

Pageantry on Parade, Photograph by Penny De Los Santos, Once Upon a Time in Laredo, National Geographic, November 2006

Contrary to a wedding dress, the “Marthas” get to wear their dresses again the next day, when each one takes place wrapped in furs on their own personal float, for a parade in honour of the first president.

The Right Touch, Photograph by Penny De Los Santos, Once Upon a Time in Laredo, National Geographic, November 2006

You might wonder who makes these amazing dresses; the answer is Linda Leyendecker Gutierrez. For over 30 years, she has designed with passion the fabulous gowns that gives this pageant it’s character. "The girls are born, and the mothers call me from the hospital," Linda says. To the elite, she is one of the most important woman in town. "I want my daughter to steal the show," one mother told Linda, and so she creates intricate and beautiful dresses for the "Marthas". "They think they're getting what they want," says Linda, "but I lead them to what I think is right."

In the Spotlight, Photograph by Penny De Los Santos, Once Upon a Time in Laredo, National Geographic, November 2006

So tonight, have a thought for these young girls who will make their debuts in Laredo’s society, not because they need it to advance in life – they all come from wealthy families and attend Ivy league schools – but because deep down inside, all little girls want to be a princess for one night.

For more beautiful pictures of these gowns, visit the following links:

Dedicated to Nancy-Raven and her current passion for Southern Belle costumes.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Otakuthon 2011 Costume Project: Princess Peach and Toadette

A new year means new projects, and one thing I plan for 2011 is to attend Otakuthon. I’ve missed the last two years already, in 2009 because I couldn’t imagine stopping to breastfeed in public all the time (plus figuring out a costume that would accommodate such an activity), and in 2010 because we were sick the week-end of (at least I had made no costumes for the event – I was waiting to see how it would go and I figured I could decide the day of if I wanted to go). So this year I really, really want to go. I don’t know yet if I’ll go only on Saturday, or if I’ll drag my daughter to Downtown Montréal three days in a row, but we are going. So we need costumes.

Last year I had made a list of ideas I could make for the both of us. I still like all of them, but for my daughter, they mean warm, possibly furry animal suits complete with heads (Pepe, the monkey from The Three Musketeers, or Kero from Cardcaptor Sakura) and I’m afraid these might be too warm for Montréal August weather. So I’ve had another idea:

Toadette from Super Mario

Wouldn’t she be cute? It’s basically a summer dress with, a vest and white shorts. For the mushroom head, I’ll use her bike helmet (which she likes to wear to watch tele) and make a slip-cover for it, mounted on an elastic so it can go on easily (my first helmet had one of those). The "pony-balls" will be made of Styrofoam balls covered in fabric and tacked to one another and the slip-cover. As for shoes, I’m sure I can find a pair of brown shoes her size either at a thrift store, or simply on sale at a retail store.

What about me I hear you wonder. Well, here is what I’m thinking of:

Princess Peach from Super Mario

I have wanted to make a Princess Peach costume for some time now. Besides, I look good in pink, I can style my own hair with a lot of spray net to get those flips, and it would be a fairly easy costume to make. Although Sarcasm-hime warns against the use of satin for Cosplay, I would like to make this costume out of Peau de soie (matte bridal satin). I should keep an eye out for sales!

For our first year going to Otakuthon together my daughter and I, I want to go for an easier project and I think this one would do.

Now if only I could convince Nancy-Raven or Marie-Ange-The-Celt to join us…

Princess Daisy from Super Mario

I'm sure that either one of them would look good as Princess Daisy.

(*Insert grinning face here*)

Wouldn’t that be fun girls?

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Irish Dance Steampunk Dress Designs

I am going through a Steampunk phase; that is no secret. A couple of years back I wanted to wear Kimono everyday, now it is bustles and vests.

Back in November, a the day after I came home from the
Oireachtas, I read something about one of Alisa’s projects (The Steampunk Ghost) and suddenly, a crazy idea came to me: A Steampunk Irish Dance Dress. Designs started popping in my mind, begging me to draw them out. I have made a few sketches based on these ideas.

First, whenever I imagine an Irish Dance dress, I like to begin with decorative design I will use repeatedly on the dress. Here is what I came up with:

Gear-Cross design

It is a clockwork gear with an Equal arm cross in its center; Steampunk plus Celtic in one simple design.

Now for the dress ideas I have come up with so far; I tried to follow An Coimisiún Rincí Gaelacha rules concerning dresses, which includes long sleeves and neckline coverage up to the collar bone, as well as general Irish Dance dress fashion of layered skirts and capes.

Steampunk Irish Dancing Solo Dress

This one is based on the current Solo dress fashion: a corseted bodice, over skirt panels and a flounced underskirt. You can see my Gear-Cross design on the panels and cape. What else says Steampunk other than wheel gear? Wings! The cape, which would be flat and quilted, represents a pair of wings.

Although people might not get the wing concept, this is a dress I could easily make and wear for shows and competitions.

Fabrics would be taffeta, silk, satin and liquid lame.

Steam Era Steampunk Irish Dance Dress

This second one is inspired by Steampunk outfits in general, and is what I imagine a Steampunk Irish Dancer would wear. The top part mimics a cream shirt with wide sleeves, worn under a green bodice. The bottom consists of an underskirt covered in lace flounce, with a bustled over dress gathered at the side front with ribbons. The cape is a piece of tartan fabric held at the shoulder and waist by brooches made in my Gear-Cross design.

If I were to perform Irish Dancing at a Steampunk event, I could definitely wear this, but I would not make it to compete on a regular basis (the colours are not flamboyant enough).

Burlesque Steampunk Irish Dance Dress

This third design could actually be worn as a Steampunk or even Lolita dress. The bodice consists of a Basque-like jacket with mandarin collar and diamante buttons down the front, an underskirt with 2 layers of pleated flounces at the bottom, and an apron over skirt trimmed in lace with tails trailing at the back. The cape is a gathered and holds with rosette brooches.
If I were a burlesque Steampunk Irish Dancer in a cabaret, I could wear such a dress (although I would probably need an evening bodice instead of a day one).

I also decided to make one design based on what Irish dancers actually wore in the early 20th century, since this is what lead to the costume we wear today. I have read (here) that at the time, with Ireland gaining its independence in 1921 (and half of it returning to England a year later), the Irish people were trying to rediscover any aspects of their culture void of English influence. They looked to the 12th century, before they were invaded, for such clues, and what little they found (archaeology in the early 20th century was still in its infancy) was that people wore belted Leíne (knee length unisex gowns) and brats (cloaks) back then. Therefore, the girls wore knee length white dresses reminiscent of Leíne, embroidered with Book of Kells design, with wide sleeves gathered at the wrist and a brat or shawl pinned to their should with a Tara brooch. The men of the time looked to their Scottish cousins for a "true Celtic look" and adopted the kilt, even though there is no archaeological proof that is was ever worn on the Irish isle. By the way, the brat is the ancestor of the modern day “cape” worn on the back of the dress.

Three young women wearing 'Celtic Costume'

Steampunked, this is what it could look like:

"Celtic Revival" Steampunk Irish Dance Dress

This is a white dress with stand-up collar, back buttoned placket closure, and Gigot sleeves. It is gathered at the waist with a kelly green sash finished with tassels. The skirt is decorated with popular Steampunk motifs such as a skeleton key, topped with a shamrock motif, clockwork gears in a Triquetra (made of zigzag ribbon to simulate a chain pulling the gears) and of course, my gear-cross motif. In the 1920’s, all the designs were hand embroidered by the dancer – they were given to her as a reward for winning a competition; the designs around the bottom of the skirt would be hand embroidered to feel period. The brat is tartan, but in the colours of the Irish Flag (born in 1916) and is pinned not by Tara brooches, but by Gear-Cross gold brooches enamelled in green. A winged Gear-Cross brooch is pinned at the neck. I have incorporated the Irish Flag colours as well as Irish symbols as much as I can in this design to give it a true patriotic feel.

I don’t know if I will ever make any of these, but it has been a fun exercise in creativity. Next up: Asian Steampunk! It's been developing slowly in my mind since New Year...

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Winter Themed Yukata

Some of you may know that I am also on DeviantArt. One of the groups I belong too, KimonoDreams (for Kimono lovers!), was holding a design contest around the theme “Winter”; entries had to be original creations or design, for Kimono or accessories, of any medium. Many entered drawings, a few entered Kanzashi and one entered a doll. The contest had been running since November 20th, and I wasn’t going to enter, but when I received a “5 days left” reminder last week, something clicked and I changed my mind. I figured it would be the perfect kick in the butt for me to start a prolific costuming year – and clean out my project bin.

Winter Yukata and Obi fabrics

So on Saturday night, with 2 days to go, I cut both my Yukata and Tsukuri Obi, I sewed the Yukata on Sunday afternoon while my daughter was napping and made the Tsukuri Obi on Sunday night, after she had gone to bed (yes, being a parent, you have to work around your child’s sleeping schedule to work on your costumes). Monday, I took pictures and sent my entry in (1h30 before Contest closing – reminds you of anything?), and today, I am sharing my first 2011 project with you.

I used Printed Quilter’s Cotton to make my Yukata: it is a lovely two tone blue chequered print with snowflakes in each square - Perfect for the Winter theme. And of course, I got it on sale! As for pattern, I used the same one I always used, a modified version of
Simplicity 5839 (I used the pattern as a block long ago, made my own pattern and have been using it ever since for all my Yukata – I should post instructions one of these days).

Winter Yukata - Flat

For the Tsukuri Obi, I found white tone-on-tone chequered jacquard in the decoration section – on sale too! Since I own a Tsukuri Obi, I measured it and based my own on these measurements. The bow is made of two rectangles, overlapping at the center fold and loosely tacked together in the middle. The ribbon to tie the bow around my waist was tacked to the bows. For the hook, I used an old metal hanger which I cut with bolt cutters (breaking a nail in the process). I then bent the ends and inserted them in my top bow’s fold. Finally, I wrapped the knot band around the bows and hook and hand sewed it tight and shut.

Tsukuri Obi Belt and Bow

In my second attempt at Kitsuke, I put both Yukata and Tsukuri Obi on last night for a quick photo shoot.

Winter Yukata - Front

Winter Yukata - Back

Please excuse my bare arms; I have yet to make a Yukata Juban.

(Note to self: must make more under things for all projects to be worn correctly).

Pretty Snowflake

It is a winter themed project after all!

Kneeling - A Japanese Must!

For those of you who have watched the making-of of Memoirs of a Geisha (2005), I concur with what the actresses said: it is an art to learn to kneel (and walk) in a Kimono.

Of course, as my entry for the contest, I made a lovely montage:

This has got to be the fastest costume project I have ever made: 48h from cutting to photo montage! Let’s hope it is a sign of projects to come.

Thursday, December 30, 2010

'Tis better to give...

I love receiving costume-themed gift, you must know that by now; but I also love giving them! This year both my Sweetheart and Nancy-Raven got costumes from some of their favourite TV shows as Yule gifts.

Let’s Begin with Nancy-Raven’s present. Nancy-Raven loves vampire stories. We used to watch Interview with the Vampire: The Vampire Chronicles (1994) while drinking red wine coolers – the ones with 0.5% alcohol, nothing to get drunk on, it's practically a soda – even though our favourite one was lime-kiwi (green).


It will not surprise you then that she loves True Blood (2008 - ), both the Sookie Stackhouse books and the HBO hit TV series. So I (we) got her the Merlotte’s Waitress kit, which includes a T-shirt and pocketed apron with the fictitious bar’s logo. Everybody owns black shorts, or can find a pair at any store, so these are not included in the kit. She was really happy with it. Now I just have to get a picture of her wearing it. Oh, and I have to get myself one too!

On to my Sweetheart’s present(s). We are NCIS (2003) fans; my Sweetheart even has McGee’s shoes! (Okay, the truth is we one day noticed that he did, but he did not buy the shoes on purpose because of their resemblance). For years, he’s been asking for some Caf-Pow every time we watched the show, so as I was shopping for him, I discovered that the CBS store now sold a Caf-Pow cup for geeks like us!

NCIS Caf-Pow Big Gulp Cup

Since I was going to pay for shipping anyways, I figured I should get him more NCIS items.

NCIS Special Agent Jacket

I got him the windbreaker and cap (with perfectly curved tab).

NCIS Special Agents Hat

I also have to get a picture of him wearing this Very Special Agent look, holding his Caf-Pow cup. Bonus: he now has a costume to wear to go trooping with l’Alliance Impériale!

And now you know what Santa Costumeholic has been distributing to all the good little costumers.

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

New-Orleans Carnival Mask

I was somewhat disappointed this year to no costume related gifts for Christmas, other than the Shoe-a-day calendar from my mom. I don’t want to sound ungrateful; I always appreciate that someone took the time to think of me and choose something they though would make me happy. Still, I’ve been spoiled* in years past with books on my favourite subject, and they were missing from under the tree.

So imagine how happy I was when Nancy-Raven gave me my Yule present tonight (mark your calendars: in 15 years of friendship, it is the first time we have exchanged our gifts during the holiday season – we usually manage to find time by Easter). It is a beautiful carnival mask she brought back from her trip to New-Orleans back in September. And lo! It is Silver and blue. It was meant for me!

New-Orleans Carnival Mask

I can’t stop staring at it. I feel inspired by it. It sort of reminds me of Sam's mask in A Cinderella Story (2004).

Hilary Duff as Sam Montgomery, A Cinderella Story (2004)

So now, I have to design a ball gown to go with it.

Hilary Duff as Sam Montgomery, A Cinderella Story (2004)

Don’t you just love creating a whole outfit to match one accessory? Occasions to wear such a costume can always be found later.

* I really do sound like a spoiled brat, don't I... Dear family, I truly did appreciated like everything I was given. Really! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for everything you do for me. I mean it!

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Black & White Evening Dress

This year, I made myself no new dress for Christmas. Instead, I wore an old dress which I had not fitted in for years (so I put on a couple dozen pounds…), but now do because I lost 25 pounds! (*Applause*).

This dress I had originally made in May 2002 for a Film Study Gala at the end of my first year of University, but everyone in my family happened to forget their cameras that night, so I have no picture of me wearing it at the time. The evening was to showcase the short films done by us students, and out of the two categories my team’s film was entered in, we won both! I still have one of the Trophies:

"Remstar" Jury's Choice Award, University of Montreal Film Study Gala, May 2002

Although most students attending were wearing jeans and t-shirts, the ticket called for “Evening Wear” and I followed the dress code. I used pattern Butterick 5367, which I had bought in 1999 with a couple others while looking for a pattern for my dream Prom dress.

Butterick 5367

The bodice is made of imitation white silk shantung and the skirt is black satin. I would love to tell you that I choose the colours in homage to Black & White movies, but really, it is simply that I love that colour combination.

Gwenyver wearing her Black & White Evening Dress, Christmas 2010

My dress is sleeveless like the pattern, but the back opening, which you can’t see in this picture, has been raised a little to hide my bra. In this picture, I am wearing a bolero, bought at L’Aubainerie, because this dress was made to be worn in May and I wore it here in December. This picture was taken at my parent’s house, on December 25 (and I should mention that my parents strongly believe that heating a house is for wusses – 16°C in winter is a fine temperature inside the home).

Of course, I was once again over dressed (my uncle was wearing jeans and asked when he saw me why no one had told him it was a black tie evening), but I don’t care. I can currently fit in it, so I am going to wear it!