Thursday, March 4, 2010

The Great Ballet Tutu Post

Since I’m now on the subject of Ballet, let’s talk tutus. If I’m going to make one, even if it is just a costume for myself, I want to do it the right way; what can I say, I’m a perfectionist! I’ve been reading up on the subject and looking at some amazing pictures, and here is what I have learned.

First, there are five types of professional ballet tutus:

The Romantic Tutu

Romantic Tutu by Class Act Tutu & Dancewear

This is a long flowing tulle skirt, made of five or six layers and usually reaching somewhere around mid-calf.

The Bell Tutu

Bell Tutu by Class Act Tutu & Dancewear

This style is well known as it was represented in many Degas painting (Edgar Degas is one of my favourite painters). It is short, stiff, and made of many layers of netting which are not supported by a hoop (contrary to the pancake tutu) and therefore falls a little in a bell shape.

The Pancake Tutu

Colourful Ballet Tutu - Wikimedia Commons

The classical tutu that comes out straight from the hips, is short, has many layers of tulle and net and is supported by a hoop. Because of this support, the whole thing tends to bounce sometime after the dancer has finished a movement.

The Platter Tutu

Classical Platter Tutu by Class Act Tutu & Dancewear

Similar to the Pancake Tutu, the Platter Tutu sticks out straight from the dancer’s waist, but this style has a flat top.

The Powder Puff Tutu

Tutu from Ballet Imperial by Karinska

Also known as the Balanchine/Karinska Tutu. It was developed by Barbara Karinska, a Russian born embroiderer turned Ballet costume designer. Balanchine loved great assembly of dancers in his ballet, but the traditional "pancake" tutu with its stiff wired layer would bob and dip when the dancers' skirts brushed up against one another and this bobbing and dipping would reverberate long after the steps were complete. Karinska devised the "powder puff" tutu, with a shorter skirt made of six or seven layers of gathered net, each layer a half inch longer than the preceding layer as a solution to this problem. The layers were tacked together for a fluffier, looser appearance (as opposed to the stiff "pancake" tutu). Because the shorter layers are self-supporting, no wire hoop is needed.

How does one construct one of these? First, you should know what the parts of the Tutu are.

The Bodice

Tutu Bodice illustration by Gwenyver

Shaped like a corset with shoulder straps, the tutu bodice must move and fit the dancer like a glove. It must feel like a second skin! Wrinkling or pulling fabric is unacceptable. It is strongly suggested that side pieces be cut on the fabric’s bias to take advantage of its stretchy nature.

The Basque

Tutu Upper Basque illustration by Gwenyver

This is the part that covers the dancer from the waist all the way to the crotch. It is shaped like a pair of panties if you like. It is a separate piece from the bodice, but it should match it and be made of the same fabric (cut on bias) if possible.

Tutu Lower Basque illustration by Gwenyver

Normally, it is made up of two parts: the upper Basque, which is the visible part that covers from the waist to the hips, and the lower Basque which is what you don’t see (not really) and looks like panties under the layers of tulle and net. The tulle is added layer by layer to each part before they are sewn together.

The Frills

Tutu Frills illustration by Gwenyver

What we always think of when we mention the word “tutu” is the frills. A tutu is made of on average 12 layers of frills, but it can go up to 16 layers for extra fullness. If a hoop is used, it will be placed in a casing on the 8th layer. As for length, it depends on the height of the dancer. gives this rule of thumb for tutu’s length:

  • A dancer 5'8" or taller then can wear a 15 or 16" tutu.
  • A dancer 5'5" to 5'7" the she should be in a 13" to 14" tutu.
  • A dancer 5'3" to 5'4' then is best in a 12" to 13" tutu.
  • A dancer the 4'10 to 5'2" tall (tiny) works best in an 11" to 12" tutu.

Layers should be attached 15 mm from each other and be perfectly aligned on the basque, otherwise it will look wonky. You can trace your lines on the basque with a ruler and an L-square to make sure everything gets sewn on straight. For the tutu to be self supported, layers need to decrease in length, from the longest on top to the shortest at the very bottom. Again, according to, this is how you should plan the cutting of your net fabric for all of your tutu layers.

  • Layer 12 (top): 12.5- (cut four widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 11: 12.0 -(cut four widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 10:10.5-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 9: 9.5-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 8: 8.5 -(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
    (the 8.5 layer is the wired layer in which a two inch strips is sewn to insert the wire.}
  • Layer 7: 7.0-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 6: 6.0-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 5: 5.0-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 4: 4.0-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 3: 3.0-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 2: 2.0-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)
  • Layer 1 (bottom):1.5-(cut three widths of 54 inch fabric)

Waltz of the Flowers Platter Tutu from eBay store Valo3456

For younger girls (junior high and younger) it is appropriate to add baby frills from the top of the leg hole all the way down the crotch line. These are no longer than 1 to 1.5 cm once sewn.

Basque Fastener from Kleins

One last thing (okay, two) that I have learned by reading the articles on never use cheap crinoline from the fabric store if you want to make a professional tutu – use petticoat net, it is more solid – and never, NEVER use a zipper for the basque or bodice – you can get professional basque closure for as little a 10$ a piece (from specialty store, but hey, what is Internet shopping for!).

Now if you are looking for links to find gorgeous tutus to drool on, go visit
Tutu Devine and Rossetti Costumes.

Maybe I should start thinking of taking Ballet classes… It would give me a legitimate excuse!


  1. Oh, I so want to sew a tutu after reading this...

  2. Glad to be of inspiration!

  3. The "basque" closure you have here is a "busk" and is meant for the front of a corset. It won't work for the back of a tutu as it won't allow the dancer to bend backwards. Just use #3 hooks and bars.

    1. I completely agree! Do not use this for a Ballet Costume, the dancer would not be able to move in it! Use separate hooks and bars or hook and bar tape!

  4. i love this!!! I am dancing in the nutcracker in December!!! and that tutu picture is really cute

  5. I am a ballet dancer and I have been looking for how to make a real tutu this is really helpful! Just a note as some =one who has worn many professionally made tutus, all you need is regular metal hooks on the bodice and basque and on some tutus there is a hook on the lower so that when its put on it fits better on the hips.

  6. I am so glad I found your blog. I am a costumer of a Finnish dance school, and I found this blog very inspirational. is my blog, my last post is of the Spanish Dance. I will be doing Mazurka, swans of the Swan Lake, Helpful duck and others later on.

  7. i love it ,
    i am also expert in ballet .
    very nice to see your post thanks for share us

    Ballet business | \A\Rachel Withers

  8. The Great Ballet Tutu post no doubt that's remarkable and wonderful ballet dancing ever i scene.

    Ballet business | Rachel Withers

  9. Thank you very much for posting this, it is extremely helpful! I'm looking to start sewing for my dance school in the near future and this has been very inspirational. I note that on the tutus I used to wear when I danced on stage the sewer had started by making the basque and skirt as a whole piece before adding the completed bodice over the top; both the basque and bodice closed separately with hooks and eyes. The basque had plastic boning inside and the bodice was tightened around the top with a rope that was then tucked and pinned underneath. We used to loosely handsew the tulle layers together and then used hairspray on them to stop them bouncing too much during the allegro

    1. Hi there, check out "Tutu Education" on the internet it's not really expensive considering what you gain from watching step by step full videos of experienced professional tutu makers passing on their techniques and tips. Another thing to do is attend a Tutu Making Course. If you are in the UK Kim Tuplin-Mace does a 1 week summer Course and Tutus that Dance do regular Seminars in the UK and the USA. No matter how many years you have been sewing, there are things that a course with a professional can teach you:)

  10. These are such beautiful tutus! My daughter has been in ballet for a few years now, and she absolutely loves it. I have a feeling she is going to be doing this for a long time, and I think that I need to start gaining some knowledge about all of this. I liked how to broke the costume down the the different parts, and made it very easy to see.

  11. Gorgeous tutu! Great tutorial. I featured your tutorial over on my blog soon. I will let you know then with the link. Thanks

    1. Thank you! But as the links bellow the pictures show, I am not the maker. Also, I learned most of this information at They deserve more credit than I.

  12. Amateur costumière:

    Grand merci pour ces précisions claires et le tuto précis.
    J'ai appris beaucoup de choses!
    C'est très sympathique de votre part.

  13. Good to know the correct way to make a tutu very informative thank you.

  14. Thank you for your post. This is excellent information.
    adult ballet tutu