Viking Apron Dress and Tunic for Nancy-Raven

For those of you who also follow me on Facebook, you may remember that in late June / early July, I was working on a Viking Apron dress and a Tunic for Nancy-Raven’s birthday (for the rest of you, what are you waiting for to Like me? Just teasing). Because she is pregnant, she did not feel well enough to party at the time (ah, the first trimester and its lovely all day morning sickness), so it was over a month after her birthday that I finally gave her her present and by then, I was so busy with Otakuthon I did not find the time to post anything about it. But since she wore it recently to Les Médiévales internationales de Lachute (formerly La Fête Médiévale de Saint-Colomban), I figured it was more than time I display my work here.

(P.S. I was unable to attend the Fêtes Médiévales this year so I will not be able to do my yearly review of bad LARP garb. I hope you are not too disapointed and you understand and forgive me.)

A Viking apron dress is actually quite easy to make. Just like most of the clothing of that time period, it is constructed from very geometric pieces. Once you know how to assemble them, all you have left to do is hems and you are done. I used the instructions and pattern from Vigdís' Viking Apron Dress page.

Vigdís' Viking Apron Dress Pattern

Vigdís' Viking Apron Dress assembling diagram

One of the numerous great things about Nancy-Raven and I is that we wear the same size everything, from every layer of clothing down to shoes. So to make her a costume that will fit her perfectly, I only need to measure myself! To compensate for her current bust enhancement, I took that measurement wearing a bra that fit me perfectly at the time I was still breastfeeding. I made the bodice just a little shorter to ensure her baby belly would fit comfortably, and a little tight around so it will still fit after her son is born. This way, she can wear it for years to come.

Nancy-Raven's Viking Apron dress and Tunic

The fabric I used is heavy gabardine in a dark navy colour. To tell you the truth, I was aiming for black, knowing Nancy-Raven’s taste for the colour, but this is the darkest I could find.

Nancy-Raven's Viking Apron dress and Tunic - Close-up

For the tunic, I used the same T-Tunic pattern that I always use. (One day I have to make a tutorial for it.)

Basic T-Tunic Sketch

Usually, I like to make the gores on my t-tunic about waist height, but the truth is, in period only men wore their tunics tailored this way. Women, who were often pregnant, as is their biological role in the survival of the race, wore tunics with gores that came up to the bust level, leaving ample room for growing bellies. Regular tunics and maternity ones were one and the same; only the position of the belt changed. Following this principle, I made Nancy-Raven’s tunic with bust level front and back gores. As the fabric seemed a bit fragile at the top of the gore, I added a rectangular patch to solidify the junction, not unlike the ones found on extant clothing of the time.

Nancy-Raven's T-Tunic

Since I was going to use trim to decorate the neckline, I finished it with bias tape instead of a facing the way I usually do.

The fabric I used for the tunic is light linen in deep blue sky colour. I washed and dried it before cutting it to shrink it, which also made it incredibly soft.

Nancy-Raven's T-Tunic - Close-up

The trims were both hand woven by yours truly using my lovely tablet weaving loom bought in Pennsic back in 2007 (Lady Jeanne, please remind me once more from whom?), some tablet weaving cards I made from an old pack of playing cards and size 10, mercerised cotton crochet thread. The patterns I used are by Eqos on DeviantArt.

Tablet Weaving patterns by Eqos

I used Andred which is a 25 cards pattern for the apron dress’ trim and Melynai which is a 14 cards pattern for the tunic's trim. I choose colours that would come alive on the fabric from the assortment of thread spools I already had.

My Card or Tablet Weaving loom set up for the dress' trim

I made the apron dress’ trim first. Because the pattern was quite complicated to set up on the loom, it took me a whole evening to do so. The next day, when I began to weave, I realized I had made mistakes in the set-up, so I had to take everything apart and begin anew. After the second set-up, I was good to go and it took me about three evenings to complete the trim.

Viking Apron dress' trim on dress' fabric

The second trim was easier and also took but a few evenings to complete. All in all, I would say it took me maybe 10 days to make both trims.

Tunic's trim on dress' fabric

A Viking apron dress as two shoulder straps that are attached to the front with what are called Turtle brooches. I already owned a pair from Fettered Cock Pewters and they are really lovely and relatively inexpensive, so I ordered a set for Nancy-Raven as well.

Viking Turtle Brooches by Fettered Cock Pewters

I am no Viking garb expert, but from what I have seen, a necklace of beads hangs between the brooches. Using mismatched pottery and glass beads (from the craft section of my local Dollar store), and modern jewelry tools (nylon thread, metal rings), I made this piece of jewellery to complete the ensemble. Of course, the first on broke as I was trying to take pictures (crimping beads are apparently not that solid), and I am still finding beads all over my sewing room’s floor, but the second I made better, with two strands of beads (instead of one), knots and crazy glue.

Nancy-Raven posted a picture on her blog (Nancy-Raven's attic) of herself wearing her present at Les Médiévales internationales de Lachute (as well as pictures from the event, and I am sorry to have missed it - see them at The international medieval festival).

Nancy-Raven in her custom made Viking outfit, complete with black low top Medieval Mocassins and self made headwear

Doesn’t she look lovely? I always think so anyways.

Now you know what comes next don’t you? I want one too! Yep, the next Viking apron dress is for mig.

Theatre Ghost: President John Tyler / Fantômes de Théâtre: Président John Tyler

I have finally finished the third of the play costumes for Nancy-Raven. I worked on it all of last week and added the last touches yesterday. Now all of the costumes are in the hands of the director and I can’t wait to see what it ends up looking like on the day of premiere (and last), on April 9.

J’ai enfin terminé le troisième des costumes pour la pièce de théâtre dont Nancy-Raven est la costumière. J’y ai travaillé tout le long de la semaine dernière et j’y ai ajouté les derniers détails hier. Tous les costumes sont maintenant entre les mains de l'auteure / metteur en scène et j’ai bien hâte de voir le résultat le soir de la première (et dernière), le 9 avril prochain.

My last assigned costume was President John Tyler. To be honest, I had never heard of that United States President before, but then again, I’m Quebecois, so I learned about Canadian and Quebec Prime Ministers in high school, not our southern neighbour’s head of state. I also have no idea why he is a character in the play as I do not know the story yet. I’ll let you know after I see it.

Le dernier costume que l’on m’a assigné est celui du Président John Tyler. Pour être honnête, je n’avais jamais entendu parler de ce Président États-Uniens auparavant, mais bien entendu, je suis Québécoise, alors on m’a appris les noms des Premiers Ministres Québécois et Canadiens dans mes cours d’histoire au secondaire, pas ceux des chefs d’état de nos voisins du sud. Je n’ai aussi aucune idée sur la raison pour laquelle il a été inclus dans les personnages de cette pièce puisque je n’en connais pas encore l’histoire. Je vous le laisserai savoir après l’avoir vu.

The Inspiration for his costume was this portrait of President Tyler.

L’inspiration pour ce costume fut ce portrait du Président Tyler.

President John Tyler, Reproduction of a photographic print, between ca. 1860 and 1865, printed later / Président John Tyler, Reproduction d'une photographie imprimée, entre 1860 et 1865, imprimée plus tard

My job was to make it in beige, with front Velcro closure for easy costume changes and with as little layers as possible, considering the rapidity of said costume changes. I was asked to make it in two layers because the character apparently takes off his jacket during a scene.

Mon travail impliquait de faire un ensemble semblable, en beige, avec fermeture de Velcro pour faciliter les changements de costumes, et avec le moins d’épaisseur de vêtements possible dû à la rapidité des dit changements. On m’a demandé le faire en deux épaisseurs car le personnage enlève apparement son veston pendant une scène.

Vest and Shirt combo / Combinaison Veste et chemise

The first layer consists of a short vest with attached collar and sleeves to mimic the shirt he should be wearing under the vest. The jacquard for the vest came from an old skirt that the director bought from a second hand clothes sale (church basement), while the cotton for the shirt was bought by Nancy-Raven in the bargain section of our favourite Fabricville. I used pattern Simplicity 8910 for the vest and Butterick 4486 for the shirt collar and sleeves. The fake front shirt piece I drew myself. It closes with five squares of Velcro.

Le premier vêtement consiste en une veste courte avec des manches et un col attaché pour simuler la chemise qui devrait être portée dessous. Le jaquard de la veste provient d’une jupe trouvée par l'auteure / metteur en scène dans une vente de vêtement de seconde main (sous-sol d’église), tandis que la cottonade de la chemise a été acheté chez Fabricville, dans la section des ventes. J’ai utilisée le patron Simplicity 8910 pour la veste et Butterick 4486 pour le col et les manches de la chemise. Le faux devant de chemise je dessinai moi-même. Le tout se ferme au devan grace à cinq carrés de Velcro.

Bow worn with shirt-vest / Boucle portée avec la veste-chemise

It was specified to me how very important it was that the costume of President Tyler include a cravat or bow tie of some sort. Out of an old satin peasant shirt, found once again in a second hand clothes sale, I cut strips of fabric to make a band that wraps around the actor’s neck, the bow and the knot. The band closes at the front with a strip of Velcro and the bow was hand sewn to the band, on top of the Velcro’s seam.

On m’a spécifié à quel point il était important que le costume du President Tyler inclus une cravate ou un nœud quelconque au cou. Dans une vieille chemise paysane de satin, encore une fois trouvée dans une vente de vêtement de seconde main, j’ai découpé des rectagles de tissus pour faire la bande s’attachant autour du cou, la boucle et le nœud. La bande s’attache au devant avec un carré de Velcro et le nœud est cousu à la main dur la bande, au dessus de Velcro.

Tailcoat / Veston Queue de Pie

I realized when taking this picture that the vest was too long. I fixed before giving it to Nancy-Raven, but I was too lazy to take new pictures. That's what happens when you sew until 2:30 AM to catch a deadline and your toddler wakes you up at 6:30 AM. So don't you worry, both the vest and the jacket are flush.

J'ai réalisé en prenant cette photo que la veste était trop longue. Je l'ai raccourcie avant de la remettre à Nancy-Raven, mais j'ai été trop paresseuse pour reprendre de nouvelles photos. C'est ce qui arrive quand on se couche à 2:30 pour terminer un projet à temps, et que votre fillette vous réveille à 6:30. Je vous rassure, le veston et la veste ont maintenant la même longueur au devant.

On top of this is the tailcoat. I used pattern Butterick 3648, but had to reduce the size considerably as the actor is Small and my pattern was a Large/Extra-Large. I just hope it fits him well since I couldn’t meet him and make any adjustments. The fabric is upholstery jacquard from Fabricville’s bargain section. It was very nice to work with! It is once again closed with Velcro. I wish I could have added decorative buttons, but it was not in the budget.

Un veston à queue de pie est porté par-dessus. J’ai utilisé le patron Butterick 3648, mais il m’a fallu le réduire considérablement puisque le comédien porte la taille Petit et que mon patron est un Large/Extra-Large . J’espère seulement qu’il lui ira puisque je n’ai pu le rencontrer et l’ajuster sur lui. Le tissu est un jaqcard de recouvrement trouvé dans la section des ventes de Fabricville. C’est un tissu avec lequel il fut très agréable travailler! Ce veston s’attache encore une fois avec du Velcro. J’aurais aimé ajouter des boutons décoratifs, mais il n’y avait pas de place dans le budget pour les fioritures.

From what I heard, this will be worn with grey pants, over a white t-shirt. With luck, I can get pictures on the day of the play, but with all the costume changes, I don’t know if it will be possible. We’ll see!

D’après ce que l’on m’a dit, cet ensemble sera porté avec un pantalon gris, par-dessus un gaminet blanc. Avec un peu de chance, je pourrai en prendre des photos le jour de la pièce, mais avec tous les changements de costumes prévus, je ne sais pas si cela sera possible. On verra!

This concludes my involvement in making the costumes for this play (can you believe I don’t even know the title?). For more of this project’s costumes, please visit Nancy-Raven’s Blog. And now, on to the next project. Lets see, what should I attack next… (Other than spring cleaning of my sewing room.)

Ceci conlu ma participation à la fabrication des costumes de cette pièce (pouvez-vous croire que je n’en connais toujours pas le titre?). Pour plus de costumes de ce projet, visitez le blogue de Nancy-Raven. Et maintenant, passons au prochain projet. Voyons voir, que pourrais-je attaquer ensuite… (À part le ménage de mon atelier.)

Theatre Ghosts : Heraclia / Fantômes de Théâtre : Héraclia

I have finished another costume for the Ghost’s play. This second costume in as many hours is for the character of Heraclia, an Ancient Greek woman. When considering what to make her, I did think of a peplos, but because of the t-shirt all actors will be wearing under their costumes, I went for a chiton instead.

J’ai terminé un autre costume pour la pièce des Fantômes. Ce second costume en autant d'heures est pour le personnage d’Héraclia, une femme de la Grèce Antique. Lorsque j’hésitais encore sur le modèle à lui confectionner, j’ai considéré le Peplos, mais en prenant en compte la réalité du gaminet porté par tous les acteurs sous leur costume, j’ai plutôt opté pour le chiton.

Peplos VS Chiton

Besides, when Nancy-Raven assigned me this costume, she was thinking of my Circe costume, worn to her Halloween party in 2009.

De toute façon, lorsque Nancy-Raven m’a assigné la réalisation de ce costume, elle pensait à mon costume de Circé, porté pour sa fête d’Halloween en 2009.

Gwenyver as Circé, Halloween 2009 / Gwenyver en tant que Circé, Halloween 2009

I made this chiton the same way I hade made mine: I cut two rectangles the width of the fabric by the desired length for the actress, closed the sides up to 20 cm below the top, to leave an opening for the hands to come out, and tacked the top in eight places, four above each arm from wrist to neckline, to imitate the effect achieved in period with fibula (brooches). The fabric is the same poly/cotton poplin used for Ladanaz’ tunic.

J’ai fais ce Chiton de la même manière employée pour le mien : j’ai coupé deux rectangles de la pleine largeur du tissu par la longueur de l’épaule au sol de la comédienne, puis j’ai refermé les cotés jusqu’à 20 cm du haut afin de laisser une ouverture pour passer les mains et avant d’assembler le haut en huit points, quatre au dessus de chaque bras, du poignet à l’encolure, afin d’imiter l’allure d’un chiton historique fermée par des fibules (broches). Le tissu est le même que celui utilisé pour la tunique de Ladanaz, soit de la popeline de poly/coton.

Heraclia's Chiton / Le Chiton d'Héraclia

For the Palla or shawl, Nancy-Raven gave a piece of dark flesh coloured veiling. I simply finished the raw ends with my overlock and I pulled them through a small metal buckle. The length can be adjusted to the actress’ desire and she can easily pull it over her head for a quick change.

Pour le Palla ou châle, Nancy-Raven m’a remis un morceau de voilage couleur chair foncée. J’ai simplement passé les extrémités non-finies à la surjeteuse, puis j’ai inséré chacune des extrémités dans une boucle de métal. Ainsi, la longueur peut facilement être ajustée selon les désirs de la comédienne et elle peut facilement enfiler son Palla pour un changement rapide.

Heraclia's Chiton and Palla / Le Chiton et le Palla d'Héraclia

I actually like it! Sure it’s beige, but still, I really think it has the right feel to it. Now let’s see what Heraclia thinks about her new outfit.

Je crois que j’aime bien ce costume. Bien sûr, il est beige, mais malgré tout, je trouve qu’il représente bien la culture et l’époque du personnage. Maintenant attendons de voir ce qu’Héraclia pense de son nouvel ensemble.

Theatre Ghosts : Ladanaz / Fantômes de Théâtre : Ladanaz

I do often miss being Costume Designer for a Theatre troup, even an amateur one. I don’t have the time to do it right now, but I still miss it. When Nancy-Raven was asked to make costumes for a High School play (our High School, Rive-Nord), I of course offered to help (make that beg her to let me work on the project with her, as her assistant). Now, because this is a French High School, I will make the posts on this play bilingual.

Je m’ennuie souvent du temps où j’étais Créatrice de Costumes pour une troupe de Théâtre, même une troupe amateure. Je n’ai pas de temps à y consacrer en ce moment, mais ça me manque tout de même souvent. Lorsque Nancy-Raven s’est vue offrir de faire les costumes pour une pièce de théâtre d’une école Secondaire (notre école secondaire, Rive-Nord), je me suis tout de suite offerte pour l’aider (ou plutôt je l’ai supplié de bien vouloir me laisser travailler avec elle sur ce projet, comme assistante). Comme il s’agit d’une école secondaire de langue Française, tous les articles en lien à cette pièce seront bilingues.(J'espère seulement ne pas trop faire de fautes, ce serait honteux.)

I do not know the title of the play yet, nor do I know the story, but from what I hear, it is about people from all eras and cultures meeting, as ghosts, and sharing memories (someone please correct me if you have any more information on this play). Because the “memories” will be projected on the actors, and the characters are ghosts, all costumes must be beige to serve a screens (white is too hard to work with for the lighting experts). Also, all costumes have to be extremely easy to put on because actors change characters during the play, and change on stage (they all wear leggings / pants and a t-shirt for modesty’s sake). It’s a concept, just go with it.

Je ne connais pas encore le titre de la pièce, ni même son histoire, mais de ce que j’en sais, elle met en scène des gens de toutes époques et toutes cultures; c’est une rencontre de fantômes qui partagent leurs souvenirs (si quelqu’un en sait plus, je vous prie de me corriger). Puisque les « mémoires » seront projetées sur les comédiens, et puisque les personnages sont des fantômes, tous les costumes doivent être beige afin de servir d’écran (le blanc étant rendant le travail des éclairagistes trop compliqué). De plus, les costumes doivent être très facile à enfiler car les comédiens change de personnage durant la pièce et se change sur scène (tous porteront un legging ou un pantalon et un gaminet, question de modestie). C’est un concept artistique.

The first costume I made is for the character of Ladanaz, a Mayan girl. Originally, the idea was to give her a short sleeved dress such as the one worn by Zia in The Mysterious Cities of Gold (1982) (Taiyō no Ko Esuteban). After doing a little research on traditional Mayan female clothing, I discovered that they wore Huipils.

Le premier costume que j’ai complète est celui du personnage de Ladanaz, une jeune Maya. À l’origine, on voulait lui faire porter une robe simple à manches courte inspirée de celle de Zia dans Les Mystérieuses Citées d’Or (1982) (Taiyō no Ko Esuteban). Après un peu de recherche sur le costume traditionnel des femmes Maya, j’ai découvert qu’elles portaient un Huipil.

Huipil, Brooklyn Museum

A Huipil is a highly colourful, incredibly embroidered tunic or blouse, which can be short and worn with a skirt, of long. Here is the fun part: translating that rainbow into beige. With no budget.

Un Huipil est un vêtement très colorée et brodée, portée court comme blouse avec une jupe, ou long comme une tunique. Maintenant la partie amusante : appliquer le concept beige à ce vêtement arc-en-ciel. Sans budget.

Concept Sketch for Ladanaz / Illustration Concept pour Ladanaz

Nancy-Raven and the play’s Writer/Director bought poly/cotton poplin on sale to make the costumes (again, no budget) and this is what I used for the tunic. To mimic embroidery, I added a large square at front and back made from what I believe is leftover upholstery fabric my aunt gave me when I was working on costumes for my previous play. It is beige toned and thickly woven.

Nancy-Raven et l’Auteure / Metteur en scène ont acheté plusieurs mètres de popeline de poly/coton en vente, et c’est ce que j’ai utilisé pour la tunique. Afin d’imiter la broderie, j’ai ajouté au devant et au dos un large carré de tissu que je crois être un reste de tissu de recouvrement, don de ma tante à l’époque où je travaillais sur ma pièce de théâtre précédente. Il est dans les tons de beige et tissé de fils épais.

Ladanaz' "Huipil" / Le "Huipil" de Ladanaz

Please ignore the pressing, it is late and this will get washed before the play anyways.

Veuillez je vous prie ignorer le repassage; il est tard et ce costume sera lavé avant la pièce de toute façon.

Pattern wise, it is simply two rectangles with openings at the sides for the arms and slits at the bottom for ease of movement. For the neckline, I used my own pattern of Key hole, which I normally use on medieval t-tunics. It is not necessarily accurate, but accuracy is not a goal here: suggestiveness and a feel for the approximate culture and period is.

En ce qui concerne le patron, il s’agit simplement de deux rectangles avec ouvertures aux latérales pour les bras et de fentes au bord afin de permettre une plus grande facilité de mouvement. Pour le col, j’ai utilisé mon propre patron de col trou de serrure qui me sert habituellement pour mes tuniques médiévales. Ce n’est pas nécessairement une reproduction précise d’un véritable huipil, mais une reproduction exacte n’est pas le but recherché : il s’agit plutôt de suggérer la culture et l’époque de manière approximative.

So now I have one down and two more to go, all due in two weeks! Since it is St. Patrick’s week, I’m already super busy with Irish dance shows, but I promised them to Nancy-Raven and a witch is only as good as her word. Besides, I Iove making costumes!

J’ai maintenant un costume de fait sur trois de promis, le tout dû dans deux semaines! Comme c’est la semaine de la St-Patrick, je suis déjà très occupée avec différents spectacles de danse irlandaise, mais je les ai promis à Nancy-Raven et je tiendrai parole. De toute façon, j’aime faire des costumes!

New-Orleans Carnival Mask

I was somewhat disappointed this year to no costume related gifts for Christmas, other than the Shoe-a-day calendar from my mom. I don’t want to sound ungrateful; I always appreciate that someone took the time to think of me and choose something they though would make me happy. Still, I’ve been spoiled* in years past with books on my favourite subject, and they were missing from under the tree.

So imagine how happy I was when Nancy-Raven gave me my Yule present tonight (mark your calendars: in 15 years of friendship, it is the first time we have exchanged our gifts during the holiday season – we usually manage to find time by Easter). It is a beautiful carnival mask she brought back from her trip to New-Orleans back in September. And lo! It is Silver and blue. It was meant for me!

New-Orleans Carnival Mask

I can’t stop staring at it. I feel inspired by it. It sort of reminds me of Sam's mask in A Cinderella Story (2004).

Hilary Duff as Sam Montgomery, A Cinderella Story (2004)

So now, I have to design a ball gown to go with it.

Hilary Duff as Sam Montgomery, A Cinderella Story (2004)

Don’t you just love creating a whole outfit to match one accessory? Occasions to wear such a costume can always be found later.

* I really do sound like a spoiled brat, don't I... Dear family, I truly did appreciated like everything I was given. Really! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for everything you do for me. I mean it!

A Crown for Nancy-Raven

For her Birthday, Nancy-Raven had mentioned to me that she wanted to wear a crown. After all, as she put it, she would be Queen for the day! She showed me this crown from The Tudor Shoppe which she really liked:

French Royal Crown from The Tudor Shoppe

Unfortunately, I couldn't fit it in my budget as we were already getting her a somewhat pricey Espresso Machine (I know, boring, right? It was my Sweetheart's idea as she and he are both Coffee Aficionados, and she loved it, so I guess it was worth it... I'm just kidding - it was a great gift idea).

I still wanted her crown dream to come true, so as any Fairy Best Friend would do, I made her one.

Nancy-Raven's Birthday Crown

And of course, because of the recent heat wave, I was always too tired to do anything, so I waited until the night before!

I looked around on DeviantArt and Etsy for a good while looking for some inspiration. As I had a lot of different gauges of wire and plenty of beads for jewelry making, I went for a wrapped wire model.

Nancy-Raven's Birthday Crown - Front

Here is a list of the Materials I used:

• 14, 16, 18 at 20 gauge galvanized wire
• Pliers
• Red glass beads
• Black faceted plastic beads
• Faux tear drop pearl
• Sea glass piece found on the beach almost 20 years ago (I am somewhat of a hoarder when it comes to craft and costuming - I rarely throw anything away, to my Sweetheart's dismay.)

Nancy-Raven's Birthday Crown - Back

I am quite proud of the way it turned out, especially considering it my my first piece AND it was the night before (my fingers were so sore).

With Nancy-Raven, you never know what reaction to expect: she could have politely thanked me for the thought, but as it turned out, she loved it (which made me doubly proud).

Nancy-Raven wearing her Birthday Crown - Restaurant

She put it on her head as soon as she opened the box that contained it, in the restaurant...

Nancy-Raven wearing her Birthday Crown - End of the Evening

...and she still had it on when we left her parent's place (where we had delicious bite size cakes made at the Bakery where she works). She even drove her cousin's convertible from the restaurant to her parent's home with it on.

Nancy-Raven's Birthday Crown - A Photo Montage

Well Sweetie, I'm glad I could make your day (I know the Coffee maker had something to do with it too).

Interview with a Costumer: Nancy-Raven

Do you by any chance remember the contest I announced on January 1st? You were supposed to tell me what I should make with a gorgeous piece of silk I found for a bargain. No? I’m not surprised, I only got one answer. I expected more from you my readers, but since I posted it during a post-project archive update (I bet you are used to those by now!), I guess you just missed it, so I forgive you.

As I said, I only got one answer and it was from my best friend, the well known (on this blog anyways) Nancy-Raven. I didn’t end up making what she had suggested (mostly because she said a baby dress and there is no way I’m putting silk on a drooling baby, but also because I got into another project), but that doesn’t mean she doesn’t get her prize, to be featured here on the very first “Interview with a Costumer” post.

I have to say, I’m glad she’s the one to be my guinea pig for this; always best to test on your friends before trying things like that with complete strangers!

Nancy-Raven wearing her "Fenice" gown, August 2004

Name and/or Alias: Nancy-Raven Hellfire
Website: ravencostume.blogspot.com
Where in the world are you? Québec, Canada

How long have you been into costuming?

It depends whether you count from the time I started to be interested in costumes or from when I began making my own, but I’d say roughly 8 to 10 years.

Gwenyver in her "Arwen's Dying Gown" and Nancy-Raven in her "Eowyn's Shield Maiden" costume, August 2004

How did you come about Costuming?

By my Best Friend [your host] who convinced me it was better to make them yourself, not only because you save money, but also because you get so many more possibilities when you can choose everything yourself (fabric, trim, style, etc.)

Note: At the time, Nancy-Raven wore Modern Medieval clothing from the local stores almost exclusively outside of work. A laced bodice was easily 70$ and I couldn’t believe she spent so much money on such a small item of clothing. As with other things, I bugged her often that she should make her own. And today she does, although she wears jeans and t-shirts as street clothes now.

What was the first costume you made?

The first costume I made was a light blue and pink georgette kimono for a Halloween Party. I didn’t sew it* but I choose the fabric and I helped cut it. That project was a turning point for me; it was after that that I seriously got into costuming.

*I did.

Nancy-Raven in her Blue and Pink Kimono Costume

What Costuming Events / Conventions do you usually attend in a year?

It can vary from one year to the next, because there are sometimes new events and there are others I simply don’t go to every year, but generally, there is the Fête de la Nouvelle-France, Otakuthon, the Fête Médiévale de Saint-Colomban, my Halloween Party and on rare occasions, some SCA events.

Where do you get your inspiration?

There is of course television and movies, but also Janet Arnold’s Books. I think in general what inspires me is not so much the costume itself, but the period to which it belongs, as well as the story that goes with it. And of course, there is music: I never sew without listening to some music.

Really? What music do you listen to?

It depends on my mood and the time of day; at night, the music I listen to has to make me feel energetic, not sleepy. There are many Medieval and Renaissance music albums in my music collection as well as a few Celtic ones. Currently I mostly listen to the soundtracks of the TV series True Blood (2008). True Blood: Music From The HBO Original Series, on which you can find the song of the opening credits, Bad Things as well as, True Blood Volume 2 which I recently purchased and I listen to in loop. I don’t have access to my computer or Tele in my sewing room and I need some sort of background noise. Sometimes, the music I listen to inspires and motivates me too.

Burnt Orange Medieval-Fantasy gown and pelisse inspired by The Mists of Avalon (2001), by Nancy-Raven

Where do you shop for Material? (including fabric, accessories, rings for mail, thermo-plastic, etc.)

For fabrics, I go to Fabricville or Club Tissus.
For celtic accessories, I love The Crafty Celt.
For music and other general accessories, I recommend The Tudor Shoppe.
And for books, none other than Amazon.ca.

What type of costumes do you specialize in? (ex.: Anime/Manga, Movie, Historical, Dance, Ethnic, Goth, etc.)

I’d say generally historical and fantasy, but neither type more than the other

What is your favourite Movie, costume wise? Have you made anything from that Movie?

I’d be lying if I said there was one in particular. I really love Leo Tolstoy's Anna Karenina (1997) with Sophie Marceau and The Duchess (2008), but I haven’t yet made a costume from either period, mostly because I would want it to be perfect and that would mean making all the underwear, corset, skirt support and petticoats as well.

Nancy-Raven as a 1920's Flapper, Halloween 2008

What is your Favourite Era, Costume Wise?

There isn’t one in particular; it would be too difficult to choose. Still, I do have a certain preference for the Middle Ages, as well as Tudor style, Elizabethan and Victorian periods. Currently, I am especially focused on the 1920’s and the French designer Madeleine Vionnet.

Which one of your creations are you most proud of?

I’d say none :I am eternally unsatisfied and I always see something that needs to be fixed or remade on anything I make. Therefore, there isn’t a creation I can actually say I am prouder of than the rest.

What are you currently working on?

Many different projects; I have a hard time working on only one at a time. I just follow my moods. My main focus for the coming weeks will be simple evening gowns, skirts with matching tops, all meant for going out and some to wear on my next trip.

(The lucky girl is hoping to visit New Orleans in the fall for The Grand Masquerade: A Gala World of Darkness Convention – I’m a little jealous... But I know she’ll bring me back a souvenir.)

Nancy-Raven as an Anglo-Norman at the Fête Médiévale de Saint-Colomban 2009

What is your dream costume?

A Victorian Ball Gown.

What is your dream costuming event?

A Victorian ball such as the one presented in Leo Tolstoy's Anna Karenina (1997) or The Young Victoria (2009).

Re-creations or Original designs?

A little of both.

Historical or Fantasy?

More historical.

Hand Sewing or Sewing Machine?

Sewing Machine

Fabric or solid materials ?

Fabric, definitely.

Nancy-Raven and Gwenyver as Scots, Fête Médiévale de Saint-Colomban 2007

Anything else you would like to share?

I think all you need to be a good costumer is a time and practice. I can only hope that with both I will one day reach a point where I am satisfied with myself. Costuming is a way to get into a character’s skin; it is a moment of pure magick and dream. To be a costumer is to create those dreams and that magick.

I also intend, with my dear friend Gwenyver, to set up a costumers group encompassing all styles of costumes, a little like a costumer’s guild, and organize themed events for members. It’s another way to get an excuse to make costumes, while at the same time sharing your passion with like minded individuals.*

*We're working on it!

Thank you Nancy-Raven for being my first subject for this interview. Comments? Questions? Who's next?

Shopping Alert - Costumes in Fashion: T-Strap shoes

Yes, more shoes to buy that can be used for costumes! Have you noticed how many t-strap shoes are on the market this year? I was looking for a (cheap) pair like crazy last fall. (I would have found one had I been ready to pay top dollar!) Why? Because last year, Nancy-Raven decided to add a theme to her annual Halloween party: the Roaring 20's. Nothing wrong with that, I love a theme as much as the next costumer, but I'm a perfectionist, and I had to go to the party with the wrong shoes (which no one noticed, really).

Here are two that I have found that could be used for historical (20th century) costuming:

Unforgettable Moments by Lela Rose Diana T-Strap Pump (Payless ShoeSource)

These are from their Bridal collection, so they only come in white, but they're only 24.99$ (USD) so you can always spray paint them to change their colour if you need them, say, black (mind you, I'm sure you can find some black ones if you take the time to look around).

Auffrey (Spring)

These look very much like Character Shoes (Ballroom Dance shoes), which are perfect for a 1920's look, except that these particular shoes have this little frill down the T-Strap. Not very historical, but I still like them. They do have that little romantic Je ne sais quoi, and you can get them in Neutral, Grey or Black.

So if any of you need T-Strap shoes, now is the time to buy. I've only given you a couple of examples, but really there are plenty in stores.

As for Nancy-Raven's Roaring 20's party, it turned out great, and we all looked fabulous.

Flapper Ladies

I wore teal of course (more on that dress in a future post, sometime in October), and Nancy-Raven made herself a red dress. Also note that, although I'm holding a wine glass, I was drinking Sprite as I was 5 1/2 month pregnant. (The two other girls are some of Nancy-Raven's co-workers. The guy in the back seen in the center of the picture is my Sweetheart, while the one wearing a hat is a friend of Nancy-Raven's Honey.)

Event Report: Fête Médiévale de Saint-Colomban

Today was a nice, sunny, not too warm day. Perfect to spend it at the Fête Médiévale de Saint-Colomban. Nancy-Raven and I have gone together for the past three years and we love to walk around and mock the really bad fantasy garb. Today was no exception and I took many pictures to share with you all, but for tonight, since I'm beat, I'll just show you pictures of Nancy-Raven, my daughter and myself. I'll do the mocking thing with you tomorrow.

My Daughter

My baby is wearing her linen tunic (Baby Shower gift from aunt Sciath), Coif (made quickly last week) and SCA - The Next Generation bib (bought at Pennsic XXXVI from Claus the Toymaker). Many people kept pointing at her, saying "Oh, look, a Medieval baby!". Her daddy is proud, she was a success once again!

Nancy-Raven

Look who got the message and covered her head this year: good girl, no sun stroke for once. And yes Honey, she drank plenty of water!

Gwenyver and Daughter: Medieval Mommy and Baby

Nancy-Raven

I love to just point-and-click and get great pictures. I'm pretty good at it too!

Nancy-Raven the Anglo-Norman

Another nice picture of her (whatever she says). I should mention that her jewelry all comes from The Crafty Celt, Raven style (of course!). Specifically, it is the Raven Fibula & Chain Set and the Raven Head Torc (she also owns the Raven Bracelet and Raven Brooch, but was not wearing them yesterday).

Gwenyver in her new Medieval Heraldic Tabard

At the end of the day, we went by the river to take some pictures. As promised, one of my in my Medieval Heraldic Tabard and Glittersweet cote.

Nancy-Raven and her Goddaughter

Two Craft Sisters: Nancy-Raven and Gwenyver

I'm also pretty good at taking self-portrait pictures by holding the camera in one hand and pointing it at myself; just look at my profile picture!

Medieval Baby

One last cute picture of my daughter for the road! Now I'm off to a nice bath to wash the dust away.