Victorian Christmas Dress

Whew! Made it! I finished my dress in time. (Note to those following my crazy train of thoughts: the curtains for my Baby's room and Christmas Stockings are not done. Sorry Sweetheart!)

Once again, no one took pictures of me wearing the thing. Thank you every one! I mean, I only worked like crazy! (I myself only took pictures on my Daughter... But she was so cute!)

So, all I have to bring you for now are picture of the dress on my sewing dummy, and I will just have to do some sort of photo shoot eventually to show you how good I look in it (yeah, I know, I'm also supposed to get pictures of me wearing my "Water" Irish Dance Solo Dress).

Victorian Christmas Dress - Front

Victorian Christmas Dress - Side

Victorian Christmas Dress - Close-up

I am done with crazy last minute sewing projects (for now). I'm really happy with the way it came out. After all, this was my first attempt at a Bustle Skirt. And I did stick to the rule I imposed upon myself for this project about materials having to come from my Stash; all I bought was some fusing, boning and hook and eye tape for the bodice, but hey, those are notions, not fabric! OK, I also bought the trim for the bodice, but it was really cheap: it came from WalMart!

Now I really have to finish those curtains before I get caught up in another crazy project. (I've been putting off the Christmas Stockings for five years already - they can wait yet another year!)

Progress Report: Finished Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt

A package has just arrived in the mail. It came from very, very far. It contains something that has to do with costumes and I am itching to tell you all about it... but I can't. It's a Christmas present for Nancy-Raven and it would ruin the surprise. (Let's hope I get to give her her gift before Easter this year - or later, which is what happens pretty much every year - so I can tell you what it is soon!)

In the mean time, I have managed to finish my bustle skirt. Yep, all finished! My, that's like, in advance! That's what you're thinking too, right? Wrong, I still have the bodice to finish. (Well at least it is already cut.)

I know, you're thinking "Enough chit-chat, we want pictures!"

Geesh! Patience. OK, here you go. Now please ignore the carpet, my sewing room is in need of a good vacuuming (amongst other cleaning duties).

Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt - Front

Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt - Side

Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt - Back

I'm really loving it. It just looks so good, if I do say so myself!

I added a piece of lace to the apron piece because there was a few big seems in the valence that I wanted to hide. And yes, the lace is also a leftover. Do you recognize the project it came from? That's right, my Edwardian / Titanic inspired Evening Dress. I just cut the fabric away from the lace design, as close as possible, and turned it upside down.

I can't wait to show my co-worker what I did with her curtains!

Progress Report: Finished Under Skirt (Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt)

Yeah! I finished the under skirt. OK, it's not exactly the most complicated piece ever, but at least something is done in this project and that makes me happy. Want to see? Of course you do!

Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt - Front

Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt - Side

Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt - Back

In case you are wondering, my Travel Bustle is under the skirt. I find it gives it a nice, light support. Discreet, but effective.

By now I can tell you that the pattern is not historical (for those of you who don't remember, I'm using Burda 7880). See those little white plastic rings on the back of the skirt? That is where you attach the over skirt to make it bustle. In reality, from what I have come to understand of Victorian bustle construction, the bustled over skirt should be gathered up using a system of rings and ribbon that hang down from the belt.

Still, it's going to look awesome.

Progress Report: Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt and Travel Bustle

Hooray! I have managed to cut my bustle skirt from the four metres I had even thought the pattern asked for seven! It took a lot of puzzling and figuring out, but I managed. Of course, this means I had to cut my fabric by aligning my grain-line to the weft instead of the warp, but as the fabric is already stabilized by the diamond patterned tucks, I doubt it will be a problem.

So I have an underskirt:


And a bustled back:

I also have belt pieces cut, but I didn't photograph them.

I haven't cut the apron yet, but as I showed you before, it is already pretty much done. I'll mostly have to add pleats to the sides and I think that will be all.

Now concerning the Travel Bustle, I have also cut my fabric.

The bustle will consist of four layers of gathered fabric. If it comes out well, I'll make a tutorial for everyone to make their own if they wish to.

This cute patterned quilter's cotton was leftover from a piece I had bought to make practice garment in sewing class (I am sticking to my "it must come from the Stash" rule for this project).

To give you an idea of what the finished bustle will look like, I have layered my pieces, alternating between the fabric and the lining so you really see the different layers.

And that's that for now. Next step is fusing, sewing and finding some fabric for the bodice.

And since I have a lot of baking to do right before Christmas, I have to be done by next week-end if I intend to wear this outfit at all. No pressure.

Project: Victorian Bustle Gown

Ever since I mentioned Rose Tyler's 1869 outfit, I've been itching to make a bustle gown inspired by it. Believe me, I've tried to dissuade myself from embarking on such a project for the Holidays (on such short notice), but I sometimes lie awake at night thinking about how I would make it.

I have in my fabric stash two burgundy red taffeta panels with tucked diamond motif: they were drapes leftover at a co-worker's apartment by the previous tenant and since they did not match her taste or decor, she gave them to me (lots of co-workers tend to give me fabric in such ways). Each panel is approximately 140 centimetres wide by two metres long.

And look, there is even a matching pointed valence with beaded trim that will require minimum modification to become the apron part of the bustle skirt! (I have folded the sides for the photo, but it is more than wide enough.)

I happen to own Burda 7880, and that is the pattern I was thinking of using for the skirt (as I read on another Blog, try to see past the pink).

Burda 7880 - Front and Back view

There is one small problem: the pattern requires about seven metres of fabric for the skirt and bustled over skirt and I only have four. But I thought maybe since I didn't need the apron, I could somehow manage.

Yesterday morning, being unable to sleep due to the pain my latest growing wisdom tooth is giving me, I decided to go for it and cut the pattern pieces I needed to see if I could fit them on the pieces of fabric I have. I lucked out. I would need an extra metre and I don't have one.

So now I have a few options: I could make the under skirt in another fabric: I probably have enough black satin out there somewhere, or I could try to use this three toned shaded fabric leftover from a Bustier Project in Draping class (but I might not have enough again).

I have also considered using the technique used by Katherine in the making of the foundation skirt of her Pink and Green Bustle Dress, that is to attach the tubed underskirt at about hip level to another fabric which is shaped over the bustle. This other fabric will be hidden by the draped bustle.

Or, I could drape my own skirt by making a tube and pleating it over a bustle.

Speaking of bustle, I don't have one and if I intend to wear this ensemble at my Mom's for Christmas, I have to be able to move and sit easily. Fear not, I have found the perfect solution.

1868-1887 Traveling Bustle by Mantua Maker

It's a Traveling Bustle! Just like a bustle, it will give your skirts the right shape, but unlike a bustle, it has no steels or hardware and can lay flat or be rolled tight for traveling (from an 1871 Harper's Bazar)! Mantua Maker has a pattern for a Traveling Bustle, but I also found that Dre-ah over at 9 Degrees of Yarn and Me has made one without a pattern and it looks quite good (see Bustle Appropriate Petticoat and Traveling Bustle Complete). From her measurements, I can figure out how to make my own.

As for the bodice, I have to look at my many patterns, but I think it will be made of black velvet and be some sort of short sleeved bustier type of thing.

So that is what is brewing inside my head. I don't know yet if I'll actually get around to it as I have a few things I need to make first, but it sure is tempting! The only rule I have about it is that all fabrics need to come from my stash. The only thing I am allowing myself to buy is hook-and-eye tape and maybe some trim.