2012 Costume Year in Review / Revue de l'année 2012 en costumes

(La version Française se trouve plus bas.)

When the year began, I made a careful plan of all the costumes I intended to make in 2012... and very few of them happened. Of course, I had a really good excuse, you know, being pregnant and all. I wasn't going to make this review at all, but so many costumers are doing it I decided to join in all the fun with what little I did.

En début d'année, je m'étais fait un plan de tout les costumes que j'avais l'intention de faire en 2012... et bien peu ont été réalisés. Bien entendu, j'avais une excellente excuse, vous savez, étant enceinte. Je n'avais pas l'intention de faire cette revue, mais plusieurs costumiers/ières l'ont fait et je me suis laissée tentée après tout de participer avec mes quelques réalisations.

For me / Pour moi

Viking Apron Dress / Robe-Tablier Viking

Regency Undies / Sous-vêtement d'époque Napoléonienne

Regency dress and Bonnet / Robe d'époque Napoléonienne et bonnet

Retro Capelet / Petite cape retro 

For the Kids / Pour les enfants

Pink Princess or Regency inspired dress and Bonnet / Robe rose de princesse ou d'inspiration d'époque Napoléonienne et bonnet

Pumpkin Tutu / Tutu de citrouille

Baby Pumpkin / Bébé Citrouille

Commissions / Commandes

Raggedy Skirt / Jupe loqueteuse

Fairy skirt / Jupe de fée

Wow! I did a lot more than I thought I did. I'm glad I did this review after all, I feel a little encouraged by it all. But of course, my best achievement this year was my son. As Angela once said on Bones, I grew a human, they should be throwing me a parade!

Wow! J'en ai fait beaucoup plus que je ne le pensais. Je suis bien contente d'avoir préparée cette revue après tout, je me sens encouragée par tout cela. Bien entendu, mon plus grand accomplissement cette année fut mon fils. Comme l'a dit Angela dans Bones, j'ai fait poussé un humain, on devrait m'organiser une parade (je ne sais si c'est la traduction exacte de la version Française).

My 3 months old son / Mon fils de 3 mois

Shopping Alert: 1920's style / Alerte Shopping: Style années '20

(La version Française se trouve plus bas.)

I was out Christmas shopping last week when something caught my eye; there in the window of Bedo, the display presented two gorgeously beaded dress that look straight out of The Great Gatsby (2013).

La semaine dernière, tandis que je faisais quelques emplettes de Noël, mon regard fut attiré par les mannequins de la vitrine de Bedo qui présentaient deux magnifiques robes qu'on aurait dit toute droit sortie de Gatsby le magnifique (2013).

Beaded Fringe Dress /

Robe avec Perlage

Bedo, 189.00$

Scalloped Hem Beaded Dress /

Robe avec Perlage et Ourlet Festonné

Bedo, 189.00$

If you are maximum a size 12 and you happened to be searching for a 1920's beaded flapper dress for less than 200$, search no more. Oh, and you can thank me later with pictures.

In a different store, I noticed quite a few cloche hats, but one in particular I really love; it somehow reminded me of the hats worn on Downton Abbey (2010), with that pleat and that bow. It is real wool too!

Si vous portez au plus du 12 et que vous cherchiez justement une robe perlée de style années '20 pour moins de 200$, vous n'avez plus à chercher. Oh, et vous pourrez me remercier plus tard en partageant vos photos.

Dans une autre boutique, j'ai remarqué plusieurs chapeaux cloche, mais un en particulier m'a vraiment attiré; il me rappelait les chapeaux portés par les femmes de Downton Abbey (2010), avec son pli et sa boucle. Et il est en laine véritable en plus!

Little retro cloche hat /

La petite cloche rétro

Simons, 25.00$

Has anyone else noticed the Art Deco era fashions reappearing in mainstream stores lately?

Est-ce que quelqu'un d'autre a remarqué cette résurgence de vêtements de l'ère Art Déco dans les chaînes de magasins populaires récemment?

Wednesday Wishlist: Victorian / Edwardian harem pants suit / Souhait du mercredi: ensemble pantalon harem Belle Époque

(La version Française se trouve plus bas.)

I've treated myself to a Downton Abbey (2010) marathon in the last week and out of all the magnificent costumes we see throughout the series, the one I've fallen in love with is Lady Sybil's "New Frock".

Je me suis payé le luxe d'un marathon de Downton Abbey (2010) dans la dernière semaine, et de tous les costumes magnifiques que l'on peut voir tout au long de la série, celui dont je suis tombée amoureuse est le nouvel ensemble de Lady Sybil.

Jessica Brown Findlay is / est Lady Sybil Crawley, Downton Abbey (2010)

This outfit is of course inspired by Paul Poiret's draped harem pantaloons, as well as, I believe, this Fancy dress costume by House of Worth:

Cet ensemble est inspiré par les pantalons harem drapés de Paul Poiret, et, je crois, par ce costume d'inspiration Turque de la Maison Worth:

Fancy dress costume by House of Worth, 1870
 Costume d'inspiration Turque de la Maison Worth, 1870

So, of course, I want to make myself something similar. To be honest, I've liked that House of Worth costume for sometime, but now I also like the construction of Lady Sybil's outfit. One of these days, especially if I get to go to Dress U or Costume College, I will make my own version of a harem pant suit. It will be the perfect excuse to spoil myself with a great pair of shoes to go with it such as some white "Astorias" by American Duchess.

Alors bien entendu, je veux me faire quelque chose de similaire. Pour être tout à fait honnête, cela fait quelques temps que le costume de la maison Worth m'est tombé dans l’œil, mais maintenant j'aime aussi la construction de l'ensemble de Lady Sibyl.  Un de ces jours, surtout si j'ai la chance d'aller à Dress U ou Costume College, je confectionnerai ma propre version d'un ensemble à pantalon harem. Ce sera l'occasion de me gâter un peu avec une superbe paire de chaussures comme des "Astorias" blanc de American Duchess.

"Astoria" Edwardian Leather Shoes (Ivory), American Duchess

Chaussures de cuir Belle Époque "Astoria" (Ivoire), American Duchess

How about you? Which is your favourite Downton Abbey costume?

Et vous? Quel est votre costume favori de Downton Abbey?

Éowyn's Green Gown Project: Necklace / Robe Verte d'Éowyn: Collier

(La version Française se trouve plus bas.)

It's here! It's here! My necklace came in the mail today.

Rewind. I never told you about my necklace. When I started on my Éowyn's Green Gown, I also began to shop for the right necklace to wear with my dress. The Noble Collection version no longer seems available anywhere, and I am no jewellery maker, so I looked for a suitably similar necklace on eBay and then Etsy. In the end, I found one on Etsy that I would be able to customize, and after discussing with the seller, she did the job for me and it is 100 times better than anything I might have done.

Il est ici! Il est ici! Mon collier est arrivé par la poste aujourd'hui.

Une minute. Je n'ai jamais mentionné mon collier. Lorsque j'ai commencé à travailler sur ma Robe Verte d'Éowyn, j'ai aussi débuté mes recherches pour trouver le collier parfait pour cette robe. La version de The Noble Collection ne semble plus être disponible nul part, et je ne suis pas joaillère, alors j'ai concentré mon magasinage sur eBay d'abord et Etsy ensuite. Au final, j'ai trouvé sur Etsy un collier auquel je pourrais ajouter pour le rendre encore plus ressemblant, et après discussion avec la joaillère, elle a fait pour moi les modifications et c'est 100 fois mieux que ce que j'aurais pu faire.

My customized necklace from 10West on Etsy / Mon collier personnalisé par 10West sur Etsy

Thank you very much Lori for my beautiful necklace. It will look gorgeous with my dress, and it is such a beautiful fine piece of jewellery that I will cherish for many years to come.

Merci beaucoup Lori pour mon magnifique collier. Il sera parfaitement assorti à ma robe, et c'est une pièce si belle et si fine que je le chérirai pour bien des années.

Éowyn's Green Gown Project: Progress Report / Robe Verte d'Éowyn: Rapport de Progrès

(La version Française se trouve plus bas.)

I have been working on my Éowyn's Green Gown lately, but with only 2 hours of sewing time a week, I have had very little time to make progress reports. Yesterday, I worked on the collar and took the opportunity to snap a few pictures. I'll just share them all here while I have a minute.

Je travaille en ce moment sur ma Robe Verte d'Éowyn, mais avec en moyenne deux heures de libres pour la couture par semaines, je n'ai pas eu l'occasion de faire beaucoup de rapports de progrès. Hier, comme je travaillais à draper le col de ma robe sur mon mannequin de couture, j'en ai profité pour prendre quelques photos. Je me suis dis que je les partagerais toutes ici tandis que j'en avais l'occasion.

One of the sleeves / Une des manches

The under-sleeve / Une sous-manche

The dress inside out - the brocade panel will be hand tacked to the center front velvet dress panel / La robe à l'envers - le panneau de brocard sera fixé à la main au panneau de velours central de la robe

The collar being draped / Le col en train d'être drapé

The front collar piece after quilting / La pièce de col de devant après surpiquage

So that is where I am at. I am still afraid of a last minute rush, but I am hopeful that I will be finished by next Friday.

Alors voilà où j'en suis. Je crains toujours un sprint de dernière minute, mais je suis confiante de pouvoir terminer à temps.

Movie Monday: Hairspray

Some days, you just need an fun easy movie to enjoy. I have found mine: Hairspray (2007). It had been on my "must watch list" for awhile but I finally got to it now that I am home full time.

The story is sweet and somewhat refreshing as the main character is an overweight teenager who's dream is to dance on a local television show, and get this, her dream does come true, quite early on in the movie. She also makes friends with the "coloured people" in 1960's segregated Baltimore, and embraces their cause.

Happy musicals always come with colourful costumes; yeah for me! Here are some of my favourites:

Amber Von Tussle (Brittany Snow) dressed for school in a white dress with blue floral details, complete with petticoat and cardigan

The girls where their best dresses for the Miss Hairspray Pageant on the Corny Collins Show

Michelle Pfeiffer as Velma Von Tussle, James Marsden as Corny Collins and Taylor Park as Little Inez, Miss Hairspray Pageant

I really love Michelle Pfeiffer's dress in this scene. I don't remember seeing such a sequined fabric before, but I will keep my eye out for it.

John Travolta as Edna Turnblad and Nikki Blonsky as Tracy Turnblad, dancing in the streets in their new sparkly dresses

My absolute favourite dress of the movie is John Travolta's pink sparkly dress (wow, I never thought I would say that in my life!). One of these days, I will make it. I don't know when, because I have too many projects as it is, but one day, I will wear pink sequins!

Costumes designed by Rita Ryack, who also designed the wonderful costumes of How the Grinch Stole Christmas (2000).

Middle-earth project: Éowyn's Green Gown / Projet de la Terre du Milieu: Robe Verte d'Éowyn

(La version Française se trouve plus bas.) 

The Hobbit, Peter Jackson's latest movie inspired by the works of J.R.R Tolkien, is coming out in a month. On December 14. I have every intentions of seeing that movie in theatre, and in costume. I haven't seen a movie in a movie theatre in years, let alone gone to a screening all dressed up!

The costume I plan on making is Éowyn's Green Gown. I know she is not in that movie, but she is of Middle-earth.

The Hobbit, le tout dernier film de Peter Jackson inspiré de l’œuvre de J.R.R Tolkien, sort en salle dans un mois. Le 14 décembre. J'ai l'intention d'aller voir ce film au cinéma, et en costume. Je n'ai pas vu de film au cinoche depuis des années, et encore moins déguisée!

Le costume que je planifie me faire est la Robe Verte d'Éowyn. Je sais que ce personnage n'apparait pas dans ce film, mais elle appartient au monde de la Terre du Milieu.

Miranda Otto as/est Éowyn, The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers (2002)

Also, I have had all the material to make it for, oh, 8 years, and I need an excuse to make it, so this is it. I have pulled them out of my stash so I can try to start working on my own Green Gown (when Baby Boy lets me).

De plus, ça doit faire au moins, oh, huit ans que j'ai tout ce qu'il me faut pour faire cette robe, et j'ai besoin d'une excuse pour la faire et cette occasion fera très bien l'affaire. J'ai sorti de mon étagère les différents tissus dont j'ai besoin pour ce projet afin de commencer à travailler sur ma propre Robe Verte (quand mon petit garçon m'en donnera l'occasion).

Dark Green Nylon Velvet - For the main part of the dress
Velours de Nylon vert sombre - pour la majeure partie de la robe

 

Green and Black brocade with geometric design for the faux underskirt panel, open skirt panel lining, sleeve lining and potentially a tight under sleeve.
Brocard noir et vert avec motif géométrique pour le panneau de la fausse sous-jupe, la doublure du panneau de jupe ouvert, la doublure des manches et peut-être une sous-manche

 

Green faux Moleskine for the collar - leftover from my Apple Green Bliaut - which I will quilt with gold thread

Faux suède vert pour le col - une retaille de mon Bliaut vert pomme - que je surpiquerai avec du fils doré

Black and Gold Floral lace to trim the collar
 Dentelle florale noire et doré pour le col

Up to now, I've managed to cut only the velvet dress pieces, but its a start.

I am also still looking for the right belt and necklace to go with my dress. I'll let you know how I progress.

And what will you be wearing for this unexpected journey? 

Jusqu'à maintenant, tout ce que j'ai réussi à faire c'est découper les pièces de la robe dans le velours, mais c'est un début. Je suis aussi toujours à la recherche de la ceinture et du collier parfait pour aller avec ma robe. Je vous laisserai savoir comment les choses progressent.

Et vous, que porterez-vous pour ce voyage inattendu?

Halloween 2012

Halloween was a week ago, so before Christmas arrives, let me share my Samhain celebration pictures with you. (It is incredible how little time one has for themselves with a toddler and a baby at home full time.) First, here is my daughter once more:

My little pumpkin

She loved trick-or-treating. We were lucky that with the bad weather brought on by hurricane Sandy, there was a break in the rain just in time to go out for candy.

Because my son is so young, I was the one who stayed home with him to give out candies. Since it was fairly nice out at the time, I dressed him in his costume, carried him in the sling and stood out on the porch to distribute the treats.

Surprised baby pumpkin

The question I got the most: is this a real baby? Riiiight...

My two favourite pumpkins

So you must be wondering by now if I finished my Pumpkin Polonaise in time. Drum rolls please...

Mother of two

Alas no. I tried, and I have done some progress on it, but with a newborn at home, I was unable to finish it in time. Oh well! I'll have it done for next year and it will be better than if I had rushed at the last minute. Also, while cleaning my sewing room, I found some cotton with a Halloween print that would make great stays for this dress.

Nancy-Raven came over with her son, my godsson.

Nancy-Raven and her son

He wore the medieval outfit she made him back in September.

My daughter had not seen my godsson since the Costumer's Picnic and was somehow fascinated by him.

All three kids

Like me, Nancy-Raven did not have the time to make herself a new costume, so she wore the scrubs her honey was supposed to wear, while I pulled my Halloween classic Dark Maiden out of the closet.

Nancy-Raven the Nurse and Gwenyver the Witch

(She is going to hate me for posting this picture of her, I just know it.)

I guess I should get working on my outfit for the premiere of The Hobbit if I want to be done in time.

1920s Spectator T-Straps from American Duchess

Looky here! American Duchess has a new model of shoes out, right in time for The Great Gatsby to bring back the fashion of the 1920's au goût du jour.
 

"23Skidoo" 1920s Spectator T-Straps

Available for pre-order now in your choice of white or white/brown. 

I personally want a pair in white, so I can dye them. I have this crazy desire for a green and purple pair.

Toddler Pumpkin Tutu Dress

Yesterday was my daughter's dance class and as we are nearing the end of the month, it was Halloween themed. All the kiddies were encouraged to come costumed. I ask my daughter if she wanted to wear her Flower costume from last year or her new Pumpkin Tutu Dress, and of course, she choose the new one, so I made sure to finish it in time. It was not very complicated (construction detail to come), but with my daughter in daycare only two days a week and my son barely a month old, I don't have much free time.

I snapped a few quick pictures before we left for her dance class, so here they are.

My little Pumpkin

One of the nicknames I use for her which she loves and finds special is "ma petite citrouille", my little pumpkin. Hence her choice of costume for this year.

Pumpkin Posing

Since the tutu is quite transparent, and since it is c old in Québec in October, I made her wear the same green clothes as she wore for her Flower costume. Her socks are orange Halloween ones with spiders on them.

Mommy, we're going to be late!

I wanted to make her some hair accessory, but did not have enough time, and then I remembered that she has a green head band that matches the fabric I used for the waistband and shoulder straps. Easy and done!

Spinning and Dancing

Unfortunately, right before we left, as she was putting on her rain boots, she stepped on her dress and made a big tear in one of the layers of tulle. My poor sweetie, she cried so hard. Her dad and I convinced her it was no big deal. I can't fix it, but I could always cut up the bottom to make the whole thing look tattered. But not this year. I still have too much to do before Wednesday.

N.B. I was shocked to see that my daughter's costume was the only home / mom made costume of all the kids at the dance class; everyone had a store bought costume. I always had mom made costumes growing up so to me that's the norm, but I guess I'm wrong. What is your take on this?

Movie Monday: The Phantom of the Opera

Since I spend currently spend most of my days doing very little, nursing my new baby, I am watching a lot of tele and catching up on movies and TV series I've been meaning to watch for years.

For the longest time, when I said I had not yet seen The Phantom of the Opera (2004), people gasped. How come I had not yet seen it? It is such a great movie! And with all those costumes, one would assume I had seen it! Well critique me no more, I have finally watched and loved it.

My favourite scene has to be the "Masquerade" ball.

 

The song is enticing, the many costumes are beautiful, and Christine's pink dress for that scene has a lovely shaped train.

Patrick Wilson as Raoul and Emmy Rossum as Christine, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

Simplicity had issued a pattern for that dress. It is now out of print, but you can find it on eBay or Etsy.

Simplicity 4479

I can't remember if I have that pattern in my collection (probably), but I would like to make a Steampunk ballgown using it, though my dress would probably not be pink.

I also like Carlotta's costumes; they are always so over the top, just like the Diva herself.

Minnie Driver as Carlotta, Hannibal Opera, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

 

Minnie Driver as Carlotta, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

Minnie Driver as Carlotta, Il Muto Opera, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

Now I think I'll go watch that movie again; I can't get the music out of y head.

Costumes designed by Alexandra Byrne, who also designed for Elizabeth (1998), Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007), Thor (2011) and The Avengers (2012), among many.

1920's Obsession

I love to look and drool at vintage garments on websites such as AntiqueDress.com and Vintage Textile. It is the best way to pass the time! While looking at all the beauties for sale or already sold, I have found many dresses I am dying to make.

In this post I will present the three 1920's dresses that have caught my fancy. I had never imagined that I could get so obsessed with the specific cut of dresses from that time, but I cannot get these out of my mind. I know I must try to figure out their patterns and make them for myself.

1. Burned Velvet ans Chiffon

c. 1922/23 Flapper Dress of Raspberry and Coral Silk Cut Velvet Chiffon

The front and back are simple rectangular pieces with a curved opening for the neckline. The left hand side has chiffon gathers held low on the waist by a rhinestone ornament. There is a lining layer of the same chiffon under the dress. According to the description, this dress has no closure; it just goes on over the head and is meant to be worn loose.

I am unsure of the exact shape of the chiffon gathers at the side, but I expect a little draping will help me figure it out.

2. Brocade and Rhinestones

Metallic brocade flapper evening dress, c.1925

This dress has gathered shoulders, a triangular hanging extension over the left arm as well as at the front and back, a faux wrapped waistband and lined skirt. The fabric is metallic brocade and there are two rhinestones flower appliqués decorating the front of the dress.

Unfortunately, I can no longer find this dress on the website where I had discovered it, so I have to no description to go by, only the photos I saved for my own reference. This will also require some draping to figure out the pattern. But I did see the perfect brocade for it at Fabricville.

3. Medieval Inspiration

Gallenga hand-stenciled tea gown, c.1920

Maria Monaci Gallenga was well known for her Medieval style gowns. This gown is loose fitting, ankle length, has long pointed sleeves and a square back train. The sleeves are joined to the body of the gown at the armholes with tubular Venetian glass beads. Mille fiore Venetian beads also decorate the points of the sleeves.

Made of modern stretch velvet, I bet this dress would be incredibly comfortable to wear.

So there you have it, these are my three 1920's obsession.With The Great Gatsby coming out this December, I hope and wish I can make at least one of them to wear for the Holidays.