Regency Picnic Dress Project - Research

Nancy-Raven and I are planning a sort of Time Traveller’s Picnic for this summer. This means of course that I get an excuse to make a new costume since I’ll be around 7 month pregnant by then! I intend to make my first Regency outfit for the event; I would rather wear something loose fitting around my baby belly. As with any new project, I start with a ton of research – it is the best part of any project. My first source of inspiration for a regency outfit was Lis’ Pride & Prejudice & Zombies’ costume.

Lis’ Pride & Prejudice & Zombies Dress

 

Since I know very little about Regency period garb, I was glad to discover that I could make myself some half-corset that will adapt to my pregnant shape. Lis used Simplicity 4052 which is now out of print, but I am considering getting the Sense and Sensibility Regency Underthings pattern in PDF format.

Sense and Sensibility Regency Underthings pattern

This way I’ll be covered for undies. It will be my first project ever with period underwear (other than the under tunics I wear with Medieval garb). I have some cotton poplin I can use for the shift and some canvas leftover for the stays.

For the dress, I looked at many models, but the one I fell in love with is Goldenspring’s Regency Muslin Gown.

Goldenspring’s Regency Muslin Gown

I love the pleated back, the train, and the sleeves! I am quite self conscious about my figure (as I may or may not have stated many times before) and my upper arms are no exception. Short cap sleeves as we usually see on dresses inspired by that era are not really my thing, but above the elbow sleeves are quite perfect. To make the pattern, I am aiming to use patterns from Patterns of Fashion 1, the bottom of the 1797-1805 Morning Dress and the bodice and sleeves of the 1806-2809 Frock (pages 48-49 of Patterns of Fashion 1), combined with Simplicity 4055 as a base and MacGyver something out of all of this. Let’s hope the results are good.

 

Janet Arnold, 1797-1805 Morning Dress, Patterns of Fashion 1, page 48

Janet Arnold, 1806-2809 Frock, Patterns of Fashion 1, page 48

Fabric wise, I wanted some sort of cotton, maybe English Lace, but I discovered that I have enough leftover of this white cotton sheeting with tiny white organic print to make that dress, so I won’t even have to spend on fabric.

 Cotton Sheeting for Regency dress

I used to think bonnets were ridiculous, but now I find myself itching to make many. I found this video tutorial on how to make a poke bonnet through  Lis’ Pride & Prejudice & Zombies’ page, made by the Oregon Regency Society.

I know someone who is going to get a couple of straw hats the next time she is at Magie du Dollar! (I want to make one for my daughter also).

Next I’ll need shoes. I found these on Etsy which look awesome.

 Original Design Black Leather Regency Shoes

What I intend to do though is find a pair of cheap ballet flats and add satin ribbons to them so I can lace them up like period shoes.

The last item I’ll need to make is a reticule purse. This seems fairly easy so I am not worrying about it yet (meaning, knowing me, that I’ll be making it the day of – just you watch me!).

Now for the really hard decision: what colour should I go for for the accessories? I have a beautiful Pashmina shawl in purple and olive green which would look lovely...

Purple and Olive Green Pashmina Shawl

...but I was also thinking of using this steel blue pin tucked taffeta I have leftover for my bonnet. 

 Steel Blue Pin Tucked Taffeta

Which colour should I choose? If I match to the Pashmina, I could look for gold or green fabric for my bonnet, trim it with purple gros grain ribbon, and wear my gold flats. If I choose the taffeta, I would add light pink ribbons and flowers to my bonnet, and I could probably find a similar Pashmina in blue and silver. Plus, I was thinking of eventually making a Spencer type jacket out of that taffeta. 

Decisions, decisions…

Gwenyver's Viking Apron Dress

A Viking apron dress has been on my wishlist for a couple of years, especially since I’m a Scadian. They seem so perfect for camp when it gets cooler, and of course, they are great for pregnant bellies. I made one for Nancy-Raven last year for her birthday, and was planning to make myself one for the Les Médiévales internationales de Lachute in September (really, see my costume resolutions for the year, back in January), but since I’ll be 38-39 weeks pregnant by then, I don’t think I’ll be going. So instead, I made it for the Salon de la Passion medievale et historique which was held in Montréal on May 11 to 13 (we went on May 12). I used the same pattern as for Nancy-Raven’s and the same fabric since I had more than enough leftover (and I still have enough left for an 18th century bedgown).

Gwenyver's Viking Apron dress

The turtle brooches I had bought in Pennsic in 2007 from Fettered Cock Pewters (I also got Nancy-Ravens brooches from them last year). The trim was made by yours truly last December using pattern Acret by Eqos.

 Tablet woven trim - pattern Acret by Eqos

Instead of making a new tunic to wear with my Apron Dress, I decided to match it to the light green linen tunic I had made for Pennsic 2007. I have worn it a few times at different events – it is just light and lovely. 

 Gwenyver as Mórag inghean Scayth, La Fête Médiévale de Saint-Colomban 2007

I did give my old tunic a slight upgrade, using card woven trim I made about three years ago as an exercise. Luckily, I had enough for the V-neck collar and cuffs.

 Trim detail for the tunic's collar and sleeve cuffs

As this is me we are talking about, I made the apron dress the week before the event, but I sewed the trim on the night before (leaving my fingers sore). I also whipped up a quick hat the morning of the event, while my daughter was having breakfast.

A quick Norse hat

I used one of the decorative stitches on my embroidery machine and red thread to add a little something to it. The result is what you see here: 

 Gwenyver's Viking Apron Dress

Since I decided to wear a Viking Apron Dress, Nancy-Raven thought it a good idea to go for the same, making us look like sisters once again (people often think we’re related – but she is my Craft sister only).

 Nancy-Raven and Gwenyver as 10th century vikings

(Keep in mind this picture was taken by my 3 years old.)

Don’t we look cute, matching and all? We’re also both wearing our Medieval Mocassins: mine are hark brown and hers are black (once again, I got them for the both of us at Pennsic 2007 – it’s great to have a best friend you share clothes and shoe sizes with, especially when you are shopping for them).

I now have one project of the 2012 costume list done. Yeah for me! And by the way, if you wish to see mi pictures from the Salon de la Passion medievale et historique, you can see them on Flickr here.

18th Century Summer Ensemble

Sometimes, there have to be advantages to working in the textile industry. This week, as they were cleaning out old samples at my work, I snatched this IKEA Duvet cover and pillowcase set for just 5$.

IKEA Duvet cover

As a general rule, it is not really my style for home décor, but the print immediately struck me as perfect for a summery 18th century number. The duvet cover is about 150 cm wide by 200cm long (60” x 80”) with both sides printed: plenty of material for a skirt and jacket with short basque.

Alvine Örter Duvet cover and pillowcases

 

Since this product is still sold in store apparently, and for only 19.99$, I could also get a second set to expand my choice of patterns for this dress. 25$ for  metres of material would still be a good deal. We'll see.

I am now looking at pictures of similar dresses to inspire me.

Gown
Britain (gown) & India (fabric), 1795-1800, Hand-painted cotton 

V&A

Dress (robe à l'anglaise)c. 1785 (fabric: 1760s)-England 
Material: White china silk with polychrome painting in plant motif; "compères" front; boned at center back; matching petticoat. 
©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Taishi Hirokawa

Calico Jacket and Petticoat by Rockin' the Rococo

18th Century Gown, A Colonial Lady's Clothing: A Glossary of Terms

Keira Knightley as Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, The Duchess (2008)

Costume design by Michael O'Connor 

Picture from The Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes - The Duchess - Flowered Gown

This is another project for 2013. I do not plan on making any period maternity wear for this year, and besides, I am only halfway through this pregnancy and I am constantly exhausted (the fabric for my Titanic “Sink” dress has been waiting for me to cut it for 3 weeks – I don’t think this project is happening anytime soon). But planning for costumes is half the fun, so why should I deny myself this pleasure?

Audrey Parker's coming back

Of all TV show types, I prefer SciFi. So lately, I’ve been watching the 4 seasons of The 4400 (it is frustration that this show was cancelled – I could have watched more seasons). There are very few costumes in this series other than in the first episode, when we see people in their original timelines, before they are taken, but in season 4, one episode struck my costumer’s chord: Audrey Parker come and gone (2007).

The character of Audrey Parker is an old woman who can astral project herself wherever she wishes. Her astral self is a younger version or herself, from her glory days of traveling the world and hanging out with the crème de la crème, in the 50’s.

And I love her look.

I am really thinking of making this (after my pregnancy that is, and when I no longer have to constantly breastfeed). Maybe for Christmas 2013. In the meantime, here is my little research on this costume.

Dress

The dress has a front and back “V” neckline, short sleeves, and a typically 50’s poufy skirt held up by a crinoline. The neckline and waist are decorated with a sequined band. The perfect pattern for this dress is (in my opinion) Vogue 2903 (from 1957).

Vogue 2903

The neckline of view B is perfect, and I can adjust the sleeve’s length to something I feel comfortable with (I prefer short sleeves to reach just above my elbow). Material to use would be red satin for the dress, and sequined ribbon for the neckline and belt.

Crinoline Petticoat

A crinoline is key for this era’s look and this type of dress. The crinoline worn by Laura Mennell, who plays the young Audrey Parker, is black. I am still looking for the perfect pattern or tutorial to make a period crinoline, but it does not look too complicated. Vixen Vintage has a great post on how to choose an appropriate petticoat, which you can find here.

Shoes

I’m not sure rounded toe shoes are period, and those heels don’t look too high, but I think I could get away with a pair of black fashion flats. That is, if I still can’t wear high heels by then; otherwise, I have a pair of black pointed sling backs which look very much like the one’s in the Vogue pattern’s illustration.

Bolero

This bolero looks like it is made of some sort of knit fabric. As I do not knit, I would either make it from knit velour, or use this ThreadBanger tutorial to make one from a thrifted black sweater.

Gloves

If you notice in some of the pictures, she is wearing short gloves which I believe are lace. Generally, those can be found around Prom time in fashion accessories’ stores like Ardène or Claires.

Jewellery

At first I thought that the astral projected Audrey wore the diamond necklace we see in the beginning, but it seems her jewellery is darker and made of a series of tear drop dangles. I looked through the differed sets offered on my favourite costume jewellery e-store, yoNEED – I have a set from there that has the perfect shape, but it is yellow crystals and gold, and I would look more for something silver and black or red. Unfortunately, they no longer carry this model. Instead, I found a vintage hematite necklace on eBay that would be perfect.

As for earrings, I have some tear drop black paste earrings that might do.

Hair

If I was going to use this outfit for Cosplay, I would need a dark brown wig to get the proper look. If it is just for my 1950’s pleasure, I can stay a blond. I was never really good with hairstyles, but this looks a bit like a pageboy hairdo (correct me if I’m wrong). I found a great tutorial on YouTube on how to achieve a look similar to the one in the picture. 

So there you have it: all my research and thoughts on this costume. Like I said, I am not about to start making it, but I do like to go through the exercise of planning – it keeps me sane. For now, I will just file it to my wishlist.

The purple toddler T-tunic that keeps on fitting

Remember this?

Purple & Black Herringbone Toddler T-Tunic

This is the T-tunic I had cut for my daughter in May 2010, when she was 14 months old, in preparations for Spring Crown Tourney. As the story goes, I only finished it last year for BIA. For this year's BIA (which was March 3 - I'm a little late in posting this), I decided to try it on her again and see if it still fitted. The neck was too small to go over her head (it was already tight a year ago) but the rest still fitted, so all I had to do was split open the neckline to make it a keyhole, finish it with bias tape, et voilà! And of course, I did all this the morning of the event, before she woke up.

Child's play

(Someone had brought home made sand bag and ring toss games made with plywood painted like codices. I believe it was Ursion de Gui from Bois Ardent, but I'm not sure. Either way, it was AWESOME to have something to kee the kids busy, so thank you, whoever you are.)

She even wanted to wear the little viking hat I had made her last year. The t-tunic is worn as an over tunic over a long sleeve white tee (the one I had bought too big for the same event last year) and black leggings. It is belted with the tablet woven band I made her while I waited for her to be born. Medieval shoes for kids get to be expensive, so she wore her fancy black patent leather Mary Jane shoes (bought for the Holidays at Value Village for 3.99$) and her Ni Hao Kai Lan socks which she just adores.

The cutest little garden gnom

That is actually what someone said upon seeing her with her hat on.

Dancing Queen

I stood her up on the stage where the thrones were to take a couple pictures, and since she's been to a few of my dance shows, she decided that if she was on a stage she had to dance.

Little Princess

What can I say: she is 3 and loves princesses. In fact, when I told her there was going to be a real princess there (Her Highness Princess Avelina, princess of the East and Crown Princess of Tir Mara), she asked me if it was going to be Snow White. She wasn't too disappointed though, because someone introduced her to Her Highness who gave her many largesses (chocolate coins).

Mother & Daughter

Hugging!

I have to say it was a good day. Everyone loved her and we had a blast. Now I wish I could go to more events, if only time and budget allowed. I am hoping to make it to Border Spat in May, and maybe make me some new garb by then.

Queen of Hearts concept

Back in August of last year, when I was still floating on cloud nine after a great Masquerade with my daughter, and wondering what to make for Montreal ComicCon for my daughter and I, I decided some cartoon character (with less detail to their costumes) would be ideal. I have never been a great fan of the Queen of hearts, but I thought my daughter would look adorable as Alice in a light blue dress and white apron, so that is what I began planning for. While searching for photos to inspire me, I found this one of Terri Hatcher as the Queen of Hearts.

Terri Hatcher as the Queen of Hearts

This got me thinking that I did not necessarily have to go down the Disney road and do a perfect reproduction of the 1951 movie’s Character, but that I could in fact get creative and do a completely original concept.

Queen of Hearts, Alice in Wonderland (1951)

As we all know, I lost my job and the convention did not happen for me, but I still worked on a few concepts that I would like to share with you.

All of these concepts share the same gold and black chevron skirt and parti-coloured red and black open and trained overskirt trimmed with white fur, as well as a mini gold crown with four red heart-shaped gems around its circumference.

Concept 1

It consists of a parti-coloured red and black sweet heart bustier, laced in the back, with opposite parti-coloured open bolero jacket with white fur cuffs and white standing collar.

Concept 2

It consists of a parti-coloured red and black sweet heart bustier, laced in the back, with opposite parti-coloured bolero jacket with triple opposite colour frog closure at front and finger loops at each cuff. The white standing collar is separate from the jacket and is integrated with the necklace.

Concept 3

It consists of a parti-coloured red and black sweet heart long sleeved bodice, laced in the back, with detachable white standing collar, puff-and-slash sleeves and pleated and starched white cuffs.

Concept 4

It consists of a parti-coloured red and black sweet heart bustier, laced in the back, with opposite parti-coloured bolero jacket with metallic colour frog closure at front, at the under bust level, white standing collar, puff-and-slash sleeves and finger loops at each cuff

Fabrics I would wish to use are Dupioni silk for the skirt, satin for the collar, and velvet for everything black and red, though I could also use satin or Dupioni silk for the corseted bodice for more of a contrast with the bolero jacket.

In the hair department, I had looked at these two wig options:

Wig option 1

Wig option 2

The black curly wig I would use for some sort of an up-do, but I also like the more vampiric look of the second wig.

To be honest, my favourite concept in number 4. I like the bolero jacket over the laced bustier, and I also like the puff-and-slash sleeves. I really hope I can make it one of these days. And of course, I will have Alice with me.