Movie Monday: The Phantom of the Opera

Since I spend currently spend most of my days doing very little, nursing my new baby, I am watching a lot of tele and catching up on movies and TV series I've been meaning to watch for years.

For the longest time, when I said I had not yet seen The Phantom of the Opera (2004), people gasped. How come I had not yet seen it? It is such a great movie! And with all those costumes, one would assume I had seen it! Well critique me no more, I have finally watched and loved it.

My favourite scene has to be the "Masquerade" ball.

 

The song is enticing, the many costumes are beautiful, and Christine's pink dress for that scene has a lovely shaped train.

Patrick Wilson as Raoul and Emmy Rossum as Christine, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

Simplicity had issued a pattern for that dress. It is now out of print, but you can find it on eBay or Etsy.

Simplicity 4479

I can't remember if I have that pattern in my collection (probably), but I would like to make a Steampunk ballgown using it, though my dress would probably not be pink.

I also like Carlotta's costumes; they are always so over the top, just like the Diva herself.

Minnie Driver as Carlotta, Hannibal Opera, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

 

Minnie Driver as Carlotta, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

Minnie Driver as Carlotta, Il Muto Opera, The Phantom of the Opera (2004)

Now I think I'll go watch that movie again; I can't get the music out of y head.

Costumes designed by Alexandra Byrne, who also designed for Elizabeth (1998), Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007), Thor (2011) and The Avengers (2012), among many.

1920's Obsession

I love to look and drool at vintage garments on websites such as AntiqueDress.com and Vintage Textile. It is the best way to pass the time! While looking at all the beauties for sale or already sold, I have found many dresses I am dying to make.

In this post I will present the three 1920's dresses that have caught my fancy. I had never imagined that I could get so obsessed with the specific cut of dresses from that time, but I cannot get these out of my mind. I know I must try to figure out their patterns and make them for myself.

1. Burned Velvet ans Chiffon

c. 1922/23 Flapper Dress of Raspberry and Coral Silk Cut Velvet Chiffon

The front and back are simple rectangular pieces with a curved opening for the neckline. The left hand side has chiffon gathers held low on the waist by a rhinestone ornament. There is a lining layer of the same chiffon under the dress. According to the description, this dress has no closure; it just goes on over the head and is meant to be worn loose.

I am unsure of the exact shape of the chiffon gathers at the side, but I expect a little draping will help me figure it out.

2. Brocade and Rhinestones

Metallic brocade flapper evening dress, c.1925

This dress has gathered shoulders, a triangular hanging extension over the left arm as well as at the front and back, a faux wrapped waistband and lined skirt. The fabric is metallic brocade and there are two rhinestones flower appliqués decorating the front of the dress.

Unfortunately, I can no longer find this dress on the website where I had discovered it, so I have to no description to go by, only the photos I saved for my own reference. This will also require some draping to figure out the pattern. But I did see the perfect brocade for it at Fabricville.

3. Medieval Inspiration

Gallenga hand-stenciled tea gown, c.1920

Maria Monaci Gallenga was well known for her Medieval style gowns. This gown is loose fitting, ankle length, has long pointed sleeves and a square back train. The sleeves are joined to the body of the gown at the armholes with tubular Venetian glass beads. Mille fiore Venetian beads also decorate the points of the sleeves.

Made of modern stretch velvet, I bet this dress would be incredibly comfortable to wear.

So there you have it, these are my three 1920's obsession.With The Great Gatsby coming out this December, I hope and wish I can make at least one of them to wear for the Holidays.

Retro Capelet

Today was my first day of maternity leave (I'm due in two weeks). I was all alone at home and I have been itching to get some sewing done, but right now, I can't really get into any serious costuming projects because there is no way I can do any fittings on myself. I am huge, my feet and hands are swollen (stupid pregnancy oedema) and I generally feel uncomfortable in my own skin. Nonetheless, I still sat down to sew, which makes me happy.

Back in January, I had cut myself a retro capelet, and I had started to sew it, but then I set it aside for some reason. Until today. The idea for the project as well as the general pattern came from the Threadbanger video tutorial "DIY Retro Cape".

 

I did not however, follow the sewing instructions; my own capelet is completely bag lined, and the collar is sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the lining. Fashion school training!

 Beige Houndstooth Retro Capelet

The fashion fabric was found in the fabric swatches bin at Fabricville, but the lining was cut from an old fitted sheet I had kept after a corner was torn and we had to replace it (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!). It is really soft! The button I bought specifically for this project because I wanted a big red button for it.

Closure detail - Bold red button

I would love to take a picture of me wearing it, but it does not close over my belly. But at least it is finished, and I can wear it once it gets cool in October (and once my waistline goes back to normal!).

Padmé’s Lavender Nightgown

Here is another costume for which I have never written a post (there are actually quite a few still): Padmé’s Lavender Nightgown. This one I made back in June 2006, when the now deceased Star Wars costuming group known as L’Alliance Impériale was invited to attend (and promote and be a part of the pre-concert entertainment by posing for pictures in our costumes) the Orchestre à Vents de Musiques de Films de Montréal's Star Wars Prequel Concert. I’ve been meaning to write a post for quite some time now; I even had a quick photo shoot about 2 1/2 years ago for that purpose, but I’m an expert procrastinator

Steel Blue Silk Nightgown

I had two Star Wars costume at the time: my Picnic Dress and my Twi’Lek. But as I wanted something more comfortable, with less layers than the Picnic dress and no make-up like the Twi’Lek to attend the concert (and I love an excuse to make a new costume), AND since I had the pattern for it, I decided to make Padmé’s nightgown from Episode 3. After all, what can be more comfortable than a nightgown, right? HA! Who ever thought that pearl shoulder strands, a brooch and a tiara were comfy sleep wear is seriously twisted! But as an evening gown, it was very nice.

Outside the Hall, OVMF Concert, June 17 2006

This dress is also known as the Steel Blue Silk Nightgown, for that is its actual colour, but the fabric I found was more lavender, and anyways, that’s the colour it looks like on screen after calibration, so there.

With Marie-Ange-The-Celt as Barriss Offee, OVMF Concert, June 17 2006

I had all the material to make the gown about three weeks before the event. It is a fairly simple dress to make, my evenings were free at the time and I even pushed myself to cut the fabric the Monday before. So at what time do you think I finish my dress? 4:30 pm, the day of the concert, and we were supposed to report at the hall between 3 pm and 4 pm. Will I ever learn? Well actually, I’m better now; I often finish the night before now, sometimes a whole 12 hours in advance.

McCall's 4995

I used lavender satin (100% polyester) with a bit of stretch that I had found on sale (satin always goes on sale when Prom season approaches). The pattern is McCall’s 4995. Instead of making the cape into two separate pieces, I made it into one big piece; the cape is draped using the waterfall technique, and the falls are held together in the centre back with 2 large clear tassels (which had received a very grievous comment which I will not repeat). My other deviation from the pattern’s instructions was with the pearl strands: I attached them to the base of the 3 shoulder straps instead of on top of them, in the back.

Back Pose

The pearl strands are made with round, clear, 8mm Crackle beads. For some reason, when shopping for my materials, I was unable to find light plastic faux pearls as I would have preferred. These were the next best thing I found.

Front Pose

On my first attempt at the decorative shoulder falls, I decided to eyeball it (it was getting late and I had to leave for the event soon); big mistake. I ended up with one side short and tight and on way too long (and this is how I wore them to the concert, with shame). I fixed them the following week, but this time, I counted the beads so both sides would be equal. 

Oh, Ani!

I had meant to make my own brooch, tiara and jappor snippet necklace out of polymer clay, but I was afraid they wouldn’t look nice so I never got around to making them and I ended up buying replacements at the mall. I got a bun size tiara (which I wore again for Irish Dancing), a lovely faux-diamond and pearls brooch, and a faux wood Celtic necklace, all for less than 30$. Good enough! 

Since we were spending quite some time outside, I couldn’t walk around bare feet so I wore my beautiful silver sequined heals.

I miss you my love

Hair wise, on the day of the concert, I just did my hair in a Pollyanna hairstyle (I wear it like that often), but now I own curly wigs for Irish Dance, so I can wear my bun wig.

Of course being a plus size lady, I have never bothered with making and wearing a fake pregnant belly; I figure I have the right waistline for that costume. But between the time I made the dress (June 2006) and the time of my photo shoot (February 2010), I lost weight, enough so that dress is now too big for me. One of these days, I will have to take it in. Or sell it. We’ll see!

From your stash to mine

I can never throw fabric away. what can I say, I'm addicted! The problem is, sometimes people I know who do want to get rid of fabric give it to me, which keeps my stash growing. Today, a colleague who is also a Designer brought me a bunch of fabrics, including 2.5 metres of this Gold Chinese Brocade.

Gold Chinese Brocade

My brain is firing up. I am trying to figure out what to do with it. For now, my first idea is a Victorian skirt, which will need a bustle on top, maybe black, and a corset. I am thinking out loud here.

Any other suggestions?

Edit: So apparently, there is a vary famous poem written on this fabric, or so the person who gave it to me told me today. Wish I knew what it was, it might add to the inspiration.

Starting with Headdresses

Someone once told me all costumers, crafters and seamstresses are borderline hoarders at the very least. I am no exception to that rule. I have the hardest time throwing stuff away because somehow, I always feel I can eventually find a use for them in a future costume or craft. 

Here is an example: a month ago, I made poke bonnets for my daughter and me from cheap straw hats. The process involves cutting a little less than half the hat away and using the bigger piece. In theory, I should have thrown out the scrap piece right away, but something was holding me back; a little voice inside my head keeps on telling me they can be used for something.

 Hat leftovers

The other night, I was playing with these leftovers, trying to convince myself to just get rid of them once and for all, when I realized they could make great bases for headdresses.

Future small headdress

Future big headdress

Part of me just wants to grab my crafting supply and hot glue gun and start creating, but then, what would be the point of having a headdress that goes with nothing? Besides, I don’t currently have (ok, had) plans for a costume requiring a headdress, but I started googling images of various headdresses anyways, for inspiration. I won’t post all the ones I found interesting here, but you can see them my Pinterest Board on Headdresses.

Ultimately, I have come up with two ideas (for now). The first one would be to make a feathery headdress to go with an eventual Steampunk Burlesque dancer costume. I would like to make a headdress that looks somewhat like this one:

  "Versailles: Golden bird" by Astarohime

Of course I would match the colours to my future costume, which I have not designed yet (but it includes a corset and bustle).

My second idea is to make a Naboo Queen costume, inspired by both these:

 Queen Amidala's Coruscant Pre-Senate Costume

 Queen Apailana's Funeral costume

Since the shapes of both these dresses are similar, one could surmise that Naboo Queens all have a dress in that style. Maybe Queen Kylantha (who is a blond according to the artwork) has one too. This way I could get really creative and not worry about screen accuracy; I could just let a beautiful fabric inspire me, especially if it is on sale. This Star Wars original idea is really tickling my brain; now I am itching to make it even if I have nowhere to wear it.

I know, I have more ideas and projects than places to wear them too and money to make them (don’t we all). And I still have two more straw hats that I want to turn into poke bonnets, so two more headdress possibility!

18th Century Gryffindor Concept

I love Harry Potter. I love the books, the whole world imagined by J.K Rowling, and of course, the movies. Back in spring, I finally got to join Pottermore. Since I love to know trivia facts behind stuff I love, I find the concept to be great! As any other fan, I couldn't wait to get sorted; as I told you earlier this week, I already have a Hogwarts uniform, but it is Ravenclaw. Imagine my surprise when I was sorted into Gryffindor this time! I have never thought of myself as brave, a quality I associate with that house, and I am more of a book worm, but if the sorting hat choose that house for me now, it must be for a reason. Trust the hat!

This of course means I need a new uniform. Am I going to make a second screen accurate uniform to match my new house? Why would I when I can go a creative with a completely different type of uniform!

This idea is inspired by Lis' own Hufflepuff Steampunk Uniform: when she was sorted into Hufflepuff on Pottermore, she decided to go Steampunk instead of screen accurate.

After considering making a medieval uniform (after all, Hogwarts was founded around the 9th or 10th century), but in the end, the design I came up with is 18th century, inspired by this trio of Alchemists.

18th century Gryffindor Student concept

The concept is for a black polonaise, with a grey compère front and matching grey petticoat with ruffles. The dress is trimmed in burgundy red and gold, the household's colours and there is a Gryffindor patch on the left hand side of the bodice. For modesty's sake, students are required to wear a white scarf. Following the current trend, the witch's hat is a small tricorne worn atop the hairdo.

I don't know when I will get to this costume, but I felt it was time for me to sketch it out. So what do you think?