60's Mod Tweed Dress / Robe de tweed mode années '60

(La version Française se trouve plus bas.)

Early in December, I received the annual invitation to my family’s New Year’s Eve party. We eat, we hang out, and we watch the end of year specials on Radio-Canada (Infoman, Bye Bye 2015). This year, the invite mentioned there would be a Vintage Kitsch theme, “just like when we were little” (“we” being the Baby Boomers in the family). They meant the food: crust less sandwiches, pinwheels, celery branches with cream cheese, family classics such as cheesy toasts and pineapple-bacon bites.

En début décembre, j’ai reçu l’invitation pour le réveillon familiale annuel de la Saint-Sylvestre (veille du Jour de l’An). On mange, on jase, et on regarde les spéciaux de fin d’années à Radio-Canada (Infoman, Bye Bye 2015). Cette année, l’invitation mentionnait une thématique Vintage-Quétaine « comme quand on était petit » (« on » étant les Baby Boomers de la famille). On parlait de nourriture : petits sandwichs pas de croute, sandwichs roulés, branches de céleri au fromage à la crème, classiques familiaux comme les p’tites toasts au fromage et les bouchées bacon-ananas.

Kitsch Buffet / Buffet Quétaine

I, obviously, saw an opportunity to dress-up. I looked at my pattern collection, picked two (one 1950’s housewife and one 1960’s Mod shift dress) and asked my Facebook followers to help me pick. Everyone voted 60’s, so I knew what I had to do. J’y ai, bien entendu, vu l’occasion de me déguiser.

En regardant dans ma collection de patrons, j’en ai choisi deux appropriés (un de femme au foyer des années '50 et un de robe ligne a mode années '60) et j’ai demandé à mes admirateurs Facebook de m’aider à choisir. Tout le monde a voté pour la robe années '60, alors je savais ce qui me restait à faire.

Simplicity 3833

One of my New Year resolutions is to use more fabrics from my stash. So for this dress, I looked at what I had that could be fitting for a 60’s dress and I picked out this polyester tweed. I had bought the fabric awhile back because I liked the look of it, and with the vague idea to make myself a suit one day (I sometimes make clothes, really!), but it wasn’t planned for anything specific, and I had enough to make view A, with long sleeves and a back belt. Inspired by view C, I decided to add sequined trim around the neckline.

Une de mes résolutions du nouvel an est d’utiliser plus de tissus de ma réserve. Pour cette robe, j’ai regardé dans les tissus disponibles pour quelque chose qui irait bien pour l’époque et j’ai choisi un tweed de polyester. Je l’avais acheté il y a plusieurs années avec la vague intention de m’en faire un complet (il m’arrive de me faire des vêtements, vraiment!), mais il n’était planifié pour rien de spécifique, et j’en avais assez pour faire vue A, avec des manches longues et une ceinture au dos. Inspirée par vue C, j’ai décidé d’ajouter du ruban à paillettes autour de l’encolure.

Material assembled. Ready to cut! / Matériel réuni. Prête à tailler!

This dress came together pretty quickly. I cut it on Monday night (December 28) and it took only 4 hours to sew on Wednesday night (December 30). You see, I had to overlock every piece before sewing them because this tweed really frays.

Cette robe s’est assemble assez rapidement. Je l’ai coupé le lundi soir (le 28 décembre), et ça ne m’a pris que 4 heures pour la coudre le mercredi soir (le 30 décembre). C’est que j’ai dû surjeter le bord de chacune des pièces avant de pouvoir les assembler parce que le tweed s’effiloche incroyablement.

Dress progress: all done except embellishment / Progrès de la robe: ne manque que les garnitures

By the 31st, all I had left to do was a bit of hand sewing: the buttons on the back belt, tacking the neckline facing and sewing on the sequined trim around the neckline.

Le 31 décembre, il ne me restait plus qu’un peu de couture à la main pour la terminer : les boutons sur la ceinture du dos, fixer la parmenture et appliquer le ruban à paillettes à l’encolure.

Finished dress: Front / Robe terminée: devant

Finished dress: Back/ Robe terminée: dos

Finished dress: back detail / Robe terminée: détail du dos

I have to admit, when I first saw it, I called it a Granny dress. I thought I was going to look so old fashion in it; very kitsch, perfect for the party, but never to be worn again. But after doing my hair and makeup (60’s inspired) and getting dressed, I couldn’t get over how cute I looked. I received a lot of compliments from my family that night.

Je dois admettre que lorsque j’ai d’abord vu ma robe fini, je l’ai appelé ma robe “matante”. J’étais certaine d’avoir l’air tellement vieille en la portant; très quétaine, parfaite pour la thématique de la soirée, mais que je ne voudrais plus jamais porter. Une fois que j’ai eu fait ma coiffure et mon maquillage (inspiré années ’60) et que je me sois habillée, je n’en revenais pas de me trouver aussi mignonne. J’ai reçu plusieurs compliments de ma famille ce soir là.

60's Hair and Makeup, matched with earrings my daughter made me for Christmas (with some help from Mamie) / Coiffure et maquillage d'inspiration années '60, agencés aux boucles d'oreilles que ma fille m'a fait pour Noël (avec l'aide de Mamie)

Unfortunately, I have no full length picture of me to share. The only one that was taken is horribly blurry. The best I can share is this bathroom selfie.

Malheureusement, je n’ai aucune photo plein pied de moi à partager. La seule prise au cours de la soirée est incroyablement floue. Le mieux que je peux vous montrer est cet égoportrait de salle de bain.

My very first bathroom Selfie / Mon tout premier égoportrait de salle de bain

Considering how that night was the last time I ever saw my father, as he passed away on January 7, I have some mixed feelings about the dress now: I still love it, but there is a twinge of sadness associated with it now. But I’m hoping a 60’s fashion photo shoot in the spring will help me feel better about it.

Si l’on considère que cette soirée fut la dernière où j’ai vu mon père qui est décédé une semaine plus tard le 7 janvier, vous comprendrez que j’ai des émotions conflictuelles à propos de cette robe: je l'aime toujours, mais il y a un peu de tristesse associée avec. J’espère qu’une séance de photo mode années '60 au printemps m’aidera à me sentir un peu mieux.

Movie Monday: Hairspray

Some days, you just need an fun easy movie to enjoy. I have found mine: Hairspray (2007). It had been on my "must watch list" for awhile but I finally got to it now that I am home full time.

The story is sweet and somewhat refreshing as the main character is an overweight teenager who's dream is to dance on a local television show, and get this, her dream does come true, quite early on in the movie. She also makes friends with the "coloured people" in 1960's segregated Baltimore, and embraces their cause.

Happy musicals always come with colourful costumes; yeah for me! Here are some of my favourites:

Amber Von Tussle (Brittany Snow) dressed for school in a white dress with blue floral details, complete with petticoat and cardigan

The girls where their best dresses for the Miss Hairspray Pageant on the Corny Collins Show

Michelle Pfeiffer as Velma Von Tussle, James Marsden as Corny Collins and Taylor Park as Little Inez, Miss Hairspray Pageant

I really love Michelle Pfeiffer's dress in this scene. I don't remember seeing such a sequined fabric before, but I will keep my eye out for it.

John Travolta as Edna Turnblad and Nikki Blonsky as Tracy Turnblad, dancing in the streets in their new sparkly dresses

My absolute favourite dress of the movie is John Travolta's pink sparkly dress (wow, I never thought I would say that in my life!). One of these days, I will make it. I don't know when, because I have too many projects as it is, but one day, I will wear pink sequins!

Costumes designed by Rita Ryack, who also designed the wonderful costumes of How the Grinch Stole Christmas (2000).

Wednesday Weekly Wishlist: Playboy Bunny

Note: The following post contains mature subject matter (although there are no “wardrobe malfunction” photos present). Reader discretion is advised. (Can you tell I hear this message often on Tele?)

Not all adult bunny costumes look bad (in reference to what I said yesterday). I’ve always been a fan of one type in particular: the Playboy Bunny Costume. You know the one, the black satin corset / bodice, the fishnet tights, the white collar and cuffs, the bow tie, the heels, and of course, the bunny ears.

Playboy Bunnies

Playboy Bunnies are a bit like Geisha in their duties (they are there to entertain), but with a very North American flavour (okay, so Bunnies are a bit less demure and coy *cough* than Geisha if only by their costume - I love Geisha and am not trying to insult their tradition, but I see a certain parallel between the two).

According to Wikipedia:

The Playboy Bunny outfit was the first service uniform registered with the United States Patent and Trademark Office (U.S. trademark registration number 0762884). The costume was made from rayon-satin constructed on a merry widow corset. Satin bunny ears, cotton tails, collars with bow ties cuffs with cuff links, black mesh pantyhose and matching high-heeled shoes completed the outfit. A name tag on a satin rosette was pinned over the right hip bone.

The uniforms were custom made for each Bunny at the club they worked in. Whenever the club was open there was a full time seamstress on duty. The costumes were stocked in two pieces, the front part being pre-sewn in different bra cup sizes such as B or C cup. The seamstress would match the Bunnies' figure to the correct fitting front and back pieces. Then the two pieces were sewn together to fit each person perfectly.

[...]Playboy Enterprises required all employees to turn in their costumes at the end of employment and Playboy has some costumes in storage. Occasionally costumes are offered for sale on the Playboy Auction site or eBay. Some of the costumes on eBay may be counterfeit or damaged in some way. Genuine Bunny costumes in good condition have sold for over $10,000. The only two on public display are in the collections of The Smithsonian and the Chicago History Museum.

Exerpt from Wikipedia - Playboy Bunny: The Bunny Costume.

I first learned of Playboy Bunnies as a child: I don't exactly remember what it was, but I saw a documentary (or a couple minutes of one while my dad was flipping the channels) with a picture of a Bunny in her costume and immediately loved the elegant look. Personally, I feel influenced by some of the vintage 60's photos to make a black one some day.

Hugh Hefner with Playboy Bunnies

Truly, as burlesque costumes goes, it’s not that bad. It has become a popular adult Halloween costume (mostly if you're going clubbing that night) and it has even been integrated in Japanese culture; it is nowadays associated with sexiness

Even Elle Woods (Legally Blond - 2001) wore one (a pink one in her case):

Reese Witherspoon as Elle Woods, Legally Blond (2001)

In the mean time, I’ll keep on wearing my silver Playboy Bunny Earrings for Easter!

Note (yes, another one): This post is only about the costume. By presenting the costume, I am not condoning the way these women were chosen or treated (I know there has been a lot of criticism). In fact, I'm sure it was unfair and probably often downright insulting. But the outfit is lovely and has become an icon, therefore it deserves to be features on this blog.

Movie Monday: Nine

What is a better source of costumes than a musical? A musical set in the 60's! Nine (2009) promises many beautiful eye candy outfits to costumers, and entertainment for the rest of the world.

"Nine tells the story of Guido Contini (Daniel Day-Lewis), a world famous film director as he confronts an epic mid-life crisis with both creative and personal problems. He must balance the many women of his life, including his wife (Marion Cotillard), his mistress (Penelope Cruz), his film star muse (Nicole Kidman), his confidant and costume designer (Judi Dench), an American fashion journalist (Kate Hudson), the whore from his youth (Fergie) and his mother (Sophia Loren)." (From Synopsis for Nine on IMDB.com)

With such a line up of impressive actors, it's bound to be good, no?

If you are interested in the costumes from that movie, I suggest you head over to YouTube to watch The Costumes of Nine. I'm going right now, want to join me?

I love making-of, especially when it is about the Costumes!

Movie Monday: Dreamgirls

Dreamgirls (2006) is going to be shown on ABC tonight! I've never seen this Oscar winning movie, and it has plenty of costumes from one of my favorite decades, the 60's! I especially like the whole backup singers trio look, with lots of glitter and huge hair!

I was so excited when, while flipping the channels, I saw Marcus Terrell and the Serenades on America's Got Talent (especially when they all have the big hair and the blue dresses).

(Sorry about the poor quality, it's the only video I could find of the dresses I mentioned, but unfortunately, some people still don't know how to work technology - you don't have to film your TV to record a video!)

Anyway, back to the main topic: Dreamgirls on ABC tonight, starting at 8 p.m. If you haven't seen this movie et and wish to see it (for free! - but you have to suffer the adds, you can't get everything in life), don't miss it!

Edit: I just finished watching it and it was a great movie. So many costumes! And almost always a version for curvacious women. (Thank you Jennifer Hudson!).

What not to wear to your High School reunion (Funky Feather Fascinator)

Big day today: the 10 year High School reunion! What shall I wear!? I've been wondering about that for a while now, and the answer is, my Alfred Sung Orange and Hot Pink Summer Dress:

Pure by Alfred Sung at Zellers

Of course, I bought mine on special, so I only paid 20$ for it (*proudly grinning*). I really like it, I feel like a 60's well dressed housewife in it. Did I say 60's? Does that mean... COSTUME!

Something I miss from the 60's (mind you I was born in the 80's) and the earlier decades is everyone dressing up nicely to go outside the house and people wearing hats.

A couple of months ago, I found a tutorial to make a Fabulous Feather Fascinator. I decided to make a Funky Feather Fascinator with pink tulle and Orange and Hot Pink feathers to match my dress.

See how good it looks with my dress? You can't deny me my Costumeholic nature...

Gwenyver wearing her Funky Feather Fascinator

Of course, I made it the night before, only to realize that the feathers I had were too long to do what the tutorial shows. It still looks great (and funky!), but my Sweetheart, after saying it was cool, was sort of horrified at the idea of being seen with me in public, in a non-costume event, with "a dead parrot" on my head.

So I didn't dare wear it to the pub where the reunion took place.

Nancy-Raven and Gwenyver at their 10 year High School reunion

Where as Nancy-Raven dressed-up as the "Wicked Witch of the North Shore"*, I went as a successful Costume Designer (complete with Gladiator Sandals - originally bought to be worn at a LARP event).

*And thank you so much Sweetie for telling everyone we were going to sacrifice a goat as we left for the restaurant!

As Shakespeare put it, "All the world is a stage and all the men and women merely players": every actor wears a costume on stage, therefore, whatever we choose to wear is a costume, especially since we often plan our clothes according to the impression we want to give. That is Gwenyver the Costumeholic's philosophy!

Wednesday Weekly Wishlist

More play on matching first letters: the Wednesday Weekly Wishlist! (It's the last one I promise - at least for the days of the week, I can't promise I won't use them for puns in the futur). I have so many projects in my head, and there are always new ones that get added. Whenever I have a new costume idea, I start doing research, and I might do research for something I won't be making for years, but as it is mu current obsession, I just HAVE to look for the answers to my questions (which makes me a very knowledgeable costumer).

So following the OSS 117 cosplay I presented on Sunday, I've been thinking of what I would have liked to have made myself had I been able to go. The answer? A colour-block Go-go dress! I've actually been thinking of making one on and off ever since I saw the first Austin Power movie. I guess I have something of a love for 60's fashion. (Could it be because my Sweetheart was born in the 60's?)

I have two main inspirations for this dress. The first is the Strawberry Mini-Wheat commercial:

I just love those red and white dresses with the matching caps and white Go-go boots!

The second inspiration comes from this past season (season 8) of Dancing with the Stars, when they did the 60's group dance (if you just want to skip to the performance, fast foward to 4:30 min):

My favorite dress design is the one worn by both Lil' Kim and Shawn Johnson - simple, half black / half white.

But is it historically accurate? One of my biggest pet peeves is when people assume or generalize without truly knowing anything on the subject. I wasn't around in the 60's, I don't know if these dresses were really worn, so I couldn't just leave it at that! I've looked through old copies of L'Officiel, I've researched the Net, I even asked my Mom (who showed me a picture of her cousins wearing mini dresses in 1967) to find proof of the existence of such dresses. And I did!

First, we have the now famous Yves Saint Laurent's "Mondrian" dress.

Yves Saint Laurent, "Mondrian" Day dress, Autumn 1965 (Wool jersey in color blocks of white, red, blue, black, and yellow)

I already knew about that dress, having written a paper on it, but one dress a general fashion does not make. I needed to find more!

By the end of the 60's, there was a fashion for "Op Art" dresses and fabrics. And so the find of the week, this following picture:

1966 Op Art Dress

I was ecstatic when I found it. It's the Li'l Kim / Shawn Johnson dress (knee length)! Go on, say it: I'm good!

OSS 117 Rio Doesn't Answer (Rio Ne Répond Plus) Cosplay

(I meant to post this yesterday, but I had computer problems so let's all pretend the date says Sunday, July 26, 2009, ok?!)

There are many different ways to spend an evening out: some like to go dancing and drink themselves silly, other will go to some sporting event or perhaps out to a restaurant. Then again, some will go to a movie, dressed like the characters! (Which doesn't mean they never do any of the other previously mentionned activities.)

Last Friday, a few of my friends went to the Montréal opening night of the new OSS 117: Rio ne répond plus movie (it's been out since April in France) in Cosplay, that is in 60's looking clothes. (I would have loved to join them, but one of the reasons I am writting this blog instead of making costumes and going to Cons and Cosplays is that I'm a new mom and I can't do all these crazy things for the moment - but I will again when my baby is a little older). So here they are, these three great gals in their stunning outfits:

Marianne Solav, Teknobug5 and Mageknightterra

A close-up of the twins, Teknobug5 and Mageknightterra

My favorite costume of the three is undeniably Teknobug5's. She looks stunning, and look at that hairdo!

Now if you don't know what the movie is about, watch the trailer, it is hilarious (I can't wait to see it - the movie obviously, I've seen the trailer already)!

Flight Attendants of the Future

This week marked the 40th anniversary of the First Lunar Landing (all of you conspiracy theorists who think it never happened, I don't want to hear about it - that includes you honey!). Of course, I wasn't born yet at the time. Heck, my parents were still in High School! But as I've been in a 50's / 60's mood all summer long, and as I do love History, my Sweetheart and I sat down to watch a special presentation of the original SRC show, originally aired on July 24th, 1969. I kept laughing every time they showed a cartoon of what was happening and specifying it was an animation. Some of the scenes did remind me of 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968) - that's just how my brain works, so try to keep up!

Stewardess in 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968)

Ah! The futuristic, space inspired looks of the 60's! Strangely enough, we've been seeing more of these on the Runaways in the last couple of years. Coincidence? What do the conspiracy theorists think? Never mind. Moving on. Thinking of that bubble coiffed stewardess leads me to think of other futuristic looking flight attendant costumes (there's the magick word!), such as the ones in Luc Bessons' The Fifth Element (1997).

Bruce Willis and Flight Attendants on the set of The Fifth Element (1997)

There is also Britney Spears in her video Toxic. Whether you like the girl or not (or the song), you must admit her sexy flight attendant outfit was pretty cool!

Britney Spears Toxic (2003)

If only I had the right body type, I'd love to reproduce these two futuristic Flight Attendant costumes.

I wonder what "Futuristic" looks will be like in the future...