Saturday, September 17, 2011
TARDIS Kimono
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Viking Apron Dress and Tunic for Nancy-Raven
(P.S. I was unable to attend the Fêtes Médiévales this year so I will not be able to do my yearly review of bad LARP garb. I hope you are not too disapointed and you understand and forgive me.)
A Viking apron dress is actually quite easy to make. Just like most of the clothing of that time period, it is constructed from very geometric pieces. Once you know how to assemble them, all you have left to do is hems and you are done. I used the instructions and pattern from Vigdís' Viking Apron Dress page.
Vigdís' Viking Apron Dress Pattern
Vigdís' Viking Apron Dress assembling diagram
Nancy-Raven's Viking Apron dress and TunicThe fabric I used is heavy gabardine in a dark navy colour. To tell you the truth, I was aiming for black, knowing Nancy-Raven’s taste for the colour, but this is the darkest I could find.
Nancy-Raven's Viking Apron dress and Tunic - Close-up
For the tunic, I used the same T-Tunic pattern that I always use. (One day I have to make a tutorial for it.)
Usually, I like to make the gores on my t-tunic about waist height, but the truth is, in period only men wore their tunics tailored this way. Women, who were often pregnant, as is their biological role in the survival of the race, wore tunics with gores that came up to the bust level, leaving ample room for growing bellies. Regular tunics and maternity ones were one and the same; only the position of the belt changed. Following this principle, I made Nancy-Raven’s tunic with bust level front and back gores. As the fabric seemed a bit fragile at the top of the gore, I added a rectangular patch to solidify the junction, not unlike the ones found on extant clothing of the time.
Since I was going to use trim to decorate the neckline, I finished it with bias tape instead of a facing the way I usually do.
The fabric I used for the tunic is light linen in deep blue sky colour. I washed and dried it before cutting it to shrink it, which also made it incredibly soft.
The trims were both hand woven by yours truly using my lovely tablet weaving loom bought in Pennsic back in 2007 (Lady Jeanne, please remind me once more from whom?), some tablet weaving cards I made from an old pack of playing cards and size 10, mercerised cotton crochet thread. The patterns I used are by Eqos on DeviantArt.
Tablet Weaving patterns by Eqos
I used Andred which is a 25 cards pattern for the apron dress’ trim and Melynai which is a 14 cards pattern for the tunic's trim. I choose colours that would come alive on the fabric from the assortment of thread spools I already had.
I made the apron dress’ trim first. Because the pattern was quite complicated to set up on the loom, it took me a whole evening to do so. The next day, when I began to weave, I realized I had made mistakes in the set-up, so I had to take everything apart and begin anew. After the second set-up, I was good to go and it took me about three evenings to complete the trim.
The second trim was easier and also took but a few evenings to complete. All in all, I would say it took me maybe 10 days to make both trims.
A Viking apron dress as two shoulder straps that are attached to the front with what are called Turtle brooches. I already owned a pair from Fettered Cock Pewters and they are really lovely and relatively inexpensive, so I ordered a set for Nancy-Raven as well.

Viking Turtle Brooches by Fettered Cock Pewters
I am no Viking garb expert, but from what I have seen, a necklace of beads hangs between the brooches. Using mismatched pottery and glass beads (from the craft section of my local Dollar store), and modern jewelry tools (nylon thread, metal rings), I made this piece of jewellery to complete the ensemble. Of course, the first on broke as I was trying to take pictures (crimping beads are apparently not that solid), and I am still finding beads all over my sewing room’s floor, but the second I made better, with two strands of beads (instead of one), knots and crazy glue.
Nancy-Raven posted a picture on her blog (Nancy-Raven's attic) of herself wearing her present at Les Médiévales internationales de Lachute (as well as pictures from the event, and I am sorry to have missed it - see them at The international medieval festival).
Doesn’t she look lovely? I always think so anyways.
Now you know what comes next don’t you? I want one too! Yep, the next Viking apron dress is for mig.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Did you say TARDIS?
Any Doctor Who fan out there will of course know what the TARDIS is, but for those of you who do not know what it is, it is the Doctor's ship. The name stands for "Time And Relative Dimension In Space", and it looks like this:
The TARDIS
Yes, it is a 1960s style London police box, and that is sort of the joke. Anyways, I have recently discovered that many Doctor Who fans like to cosplay as the TARDIS.

And not just as a regular police box; many of them are very original in their interpretation. Just you look:
Steampunk TARDIS Bustle dress by Courtney Stoker
The Doctor and his Tardis, found on EPBOT
TARDIS Ballroom Dress by Kelldar
Dalek and the TARDIS
TARDIS' day out
Shoulderless TARDIS dress
Otakon 2011 Tardis costume
Tardis cosplay by Kistaa, picture by KiumAll these creative interpretations have given me an idea: there should be a group for all of these costumers (of which I hope to be a member soon - I have my own design idea), just like the Let them eat cake group for people who make sweets inspired 18th century outfits. I was actually discussing this with the instigator of this group, who is also a Doctor Who fan, and she loves the idea.
Edit: The Doctor's Wives it is! Please join us over on Facebook - The Doctor's Wives.
Saturday, August 27, 2011
The Masquerade: to enter or not to enter
It had never occurred to me to consider whether or not my costume is “good enough” for the masquerade. Such events are often my main reason for going to a convention, because costuming is my passion. I know I work very hard on my costumes; I put a lot of time, energy and, let’s face it, money to make them. Contrary to others (not all, but many), I finish my pieces as if they were store bought garments, with overlocked seams, lining and proper hems. Of course, if you are in the audience, you can’t really tell.
Because of comments I have read on the poor quality of costumes presented at Otakuthon’s Masquerade, I have begun questioning myself: was my Rosalina good enough? Was it too plain? Of course, most people have no idea I asked for my worked to be judged as Journeyman even if, being accompanied by my daughter, I walked on stage in the Junior category. In fact, since I didn’t win anything official (my Costume-Con 32 membership is awesome, but it is not an official masquerade prize – as proof, my entry is not mentioned on any of the winner’s lists), I have wondered if it was because the judges did not realize I was supposed to be judged (my form said both Junior and Journeyman – it can be confusing), or because as wonderful as my work was, there were better entries (I am not a sore looser – there were really amazing creations presented), or because my costume was fine for hall costuming but was not up to Masquerade standards. I wish I could receive a report card of sorts at the end that would answer all my questions and help me ameliorate myself and my creations. It is like going for an exam in school, not get the top grade, but never know how you did. This is me, I just need to know!
I know, I am incredibly self confident and nothing touches me (not!).
Which brings me to ask the question, what are Masquerade standards? What is considered “Good enough” and what is nice but too plain to compete? I am curious to hear your input on this.
Here are some other entries in this year’s Otakuthon Masquerade:
The Queen of hearts from Alice in Wonderland, Cosplayer unknown, photo by SailorSaturnStef
Princess Zelda, Malon, Vaati and Link from The Legend of Zelda, Cosplayers unknown, photo by Rinukon
Guilmon from Digimon, Cosplayer unknown, photo by SailorSaturnStef
SailorSaturnStef as Odile from Swan Lake, photo by shnoogums5060Mytis as Rozalin from Disgaea 2, photo by SailorSaturnStef
MamaLexxy as Beatrice from Umineko no Naku Koro ni, photo by SailorSaturnStefCosplayer and Cosplay unknown
All official photos can be found here (the album is not complete on the date I post this, but I hope it will be soon).
Now it is your turn: what is your opinion on the matter? I really want to hear everyone’s opinion as I am sure there are differences. Speak up costumers!
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Rosalina Costume Detail
For the dress, I used polyester crepe which I found on sale (of course). I knew it was going to be hot (and it was), but it had the perfect matte but shiny look I was going for without using satin. I used pattern Butterick 4301 as a basic bloc and made a new pattern with a separate empire waist bodice, shaped skirt with train and long bell sleeves.
Rosalina's Dress - Sleeves' Flounces
The flounces at sleeves and bottom hem I interpreted as being made of sheer organza. In the case of the sleeves’ flounces, they had to have a shaped border, so I used the same technique here that I had used for my Padmé Picnic gown (a long, long time ago, in an apartment far away): I drew my shape on some tearaway, in this case using a frozen juice can top, then I pinned the organza to the tearaway and satin stitched following the curvy lines. The flounce at the bottom hem is curved to nothing at center front and finished with an overlock machine, and then turned and sewn. All the flounces were ruffled using a ruffler foot before being attached to their respective parts.
The shawl collar is also made of organza, but in this case I used two layers that I shaped to curve to nothing at center front, sewed and overlocked together at the bottom edge. I flipped the piece over so the overlocked edge would be inside and I pressed that seam flat. The open side was sewn to the dress, sandwiched between the self fabric and the foundation or lining.
The sleeves are lined with cotton poplin for a cleaner finish and a more comfortable wear.
Because Rosalina is the mother of all lumens (which are stars), I used the star shaped decorative stitch on my machine and silver thread to decorate the bottom hem, the sleeves’ hem and the collar, eve thought it would not bee seen. This stitch not only kept everything in place and lying flat, I also thought it was the perfect little touch that matched the character’s personality. This I did on Friday night (of the between 10:30 PM and 12:00 AM. What can I say, I’m a perfectionist!
The foundation is a corset like piece made of leftover white spandex from Toadette’s helmet, and tie wraps as boning. If you are ever looking for cheap boning for a costume you will not wear that often, tie wraps are the best – inexpensive, easy to find, easy to cut, and very comfortable. (For everyday wear, invest in proper boning.) Because the fabric I used for this layer was so stretchy, I made the foundation a little smaller than I would normally make a corset so that it fit tightly but comfortably. After all, this is what holds the strapless dress up and prevents a wardrobe malfunction. The foundation is what lines the bodice.
The underskirt was made of light white satin. I made it 1.5 times as big as the dress’ skirt and gathered it. It is sewn to the bodice along with the dress’ skirt. The bottom hem is overlocked, turned and sewn.
The Petticoat
Because the fabrics I used were so flimsy and I needed a little volume, I made myself a petticoat. It is actually a three tiered skirt made from the off white satin I had originally bought for the underskirt (until I came home and realized it wasn’t white enough for my needs).
It is actually quite easy to make. First, measure the length you want your skirt to be (in my case, about a metre). Divide by 3 and add your seam allowance. That is the length of your tiers. Next, cut strips of fabric which are the width of your fabric by the length you measured. Decide how many you will need in advance. In my case, I used one for the first tier, two for the second and four for the third. Sew your rectangles together to make three tubes of varying diameter. Gather the top of the second tube and sew it to the bottom of the first one. Then, gather the top of the third tube and sew it to the bottom of the second one. Hem the bottom. Make a casing atop and insert a drawstring or elastic (I choose elastic for this project because it saved me the trouble of making eyelets, but I might fix that later). There you go: a perfectly easy tiered skirt.
By the way, I don’t think I left one seam not overlocked in this project (I broke three needles just on the petticoat). I did not want any of my seams to come undone or the fabric start fraying after a needed wash. Again, perfectionist. I just wished I had been able to show the Workmanship judge all my hard work, but I was busy trying to catch a toddler so I could barely think of all I had to tell her. Oh well, too late now!
That’s it for the sewing. But wait! Rosalina is not complete without all of her accessories! For all the accessories, I followed Martyn's tutorials, so I won’t go into details on how to make them, but I will show you my results.
The crown
All accessories are made of fun foam and spray painted. Compared to other crowns I have made using this material, this is one of the best. I followed Martyn’s measurements (out of sheer laziness), but I find it a little too big compared to the character’s proportions. Also, the bottom finish could have been a little better: I used hot glue to stick a circle of card board at the bottom, but I don’t like how you can see the seam of glue. I probably should have made my circle smaller so it would be hidden inside. Maybe I can still fix that. The bottom of the cardboard is covered with white felt (so I don’t get paint flakes transferred to my hair). A head band bought in a craft store and spray painted silver is inserted through the cardboard so the crown holds on my head.
The gems are my favourite. Because I did not want to spend 40$ on the perfect cabochons, I bought plastic gems at a craft store and painted them with glitter paint in either red or teal. From afar, they are the right colour, but they are also sparkly.
The earrings
The earrings were actually the first thing I made for this project, one sleepless Friday night. They are three layers of fun foam, each one smaller than the previous one. I ended up spray painting them so that all my yellow accessories would be the same. I wanted to glaze them with yellow glitter paint, but I ran out of time. Next time! To make these stars into actual jewellery, I pierced a hole at the top, inserted a large hoop and mounted that on a hook earring. Easy to put on and take off if your toddler decides to try to pull on them too much.
The Brooch
The brooch is made of four layers of fun foam. The first two are full stars, the third has a circle hollowed out (for the “gem”) and the fourth is simply an edge. I used plastic wood (as suggested in Martyn’s tutorial) to make the sides all nice and equal, but it was a little hard to work with because as soon as the foam stretches, the plastic wood cracks. This was spray painted silver.
The big yellow gem was made using a spherical box containing a laser pointer, which I got in a vending machine. I was actually looking around for the perfect container in the perfect size, but I didn’t care what was inside (good thing too because that stupid laser pointer doesn’t work). I used the clear side, filled the top indentation with plastic wood and spray painted it yellow. I also wanted to glaze that with yellow glitter paint, but again, I ran out of time.
From Vending Machine Toy to Gem
Once everything was ready, I poured white glue inside the hollowed out circle in the brooch and inserted the gem, holding it tight so the glue would take. I then used hot glue to fix a brooch to the back. Of course, this is one of the first things that got broken during the convention: since my daughter was constantly in my arms, she accidently pulled on the brooch at some point and there are limits to the strength of hot glue. I tried duct tape (never leave home without it!) but it kept falling after half an hour. I borrowed hot glue from the masters in the green room but that didn’t hold. With an hour left before our stage call, I used fresh duct tape and lots of white glue (I has expected something to break – it is bound to happen with a toddler in tow). By the time we stepped on the stage, the brooch was holding, but the glue was not dry. The joys of being a Masquerade participant!
The Wand
The wand did not survive the week-end. Not only did I have a hard time making it, it was also destroyed by my daughter.
Originally, I tried using two layers of thick foam (from one of those floor tiles used for kids playrooms). My small craft knife did not do a good job of making the edges nice and smooths, but I figured plastic wood would. How wrong I was. Since it was looking worse every time I worked on it, I decided the night before to use two layers of thin foam for the week-end and to make it better later. On Friday night, I cut my two hollow stars and I spray painted them yellow. As soon as they were dried, I glued them together, sandwiching the small wood dowel I had previously cut and painted silver. I used clothes pins to keep everything in place as it dried overnight.
It looked okay and usable. I stuck in on the stroller so I didn’t have to carry it in my hands all day. In the afternoon, as I was freshening my make-up, my daughter tried to grab it, but she unfortunately pulled at it by holding the foam and she tore it. Out came the white glue to try to fix it before the masquerade. It took forever, but I managed to fix the tear, although it was obvious it had been repaired. On Sunday, while I went back to the convention alone and my daughter stayed at home with her dad, she played with the wand and tore the rest of the star off. So now if I want to wear that costume again, I have a lot of foam fixing to do.
The shoes
I had the perfect shoes for this costume; I’ve had them for years! Pointed, silver, covered in rhinestones and with some teal and gold embroidery.
The perfect shoes I wish I could have worn
But they are heels, and I can’t wear heals anymore (stupid sprain). I had hoped until a week before that my ankle would be fixed in time for me to wear my lovely shoes (I know, wishful thinking), but I had to admit to myself a week before that it was not going to happen. So I got a pair of flat heel, round toe, silver glitter shoes at Wal-Mart. They’re great! But they’re not my perfect shoes. Oh well, at least I have a pair of fancy shoes for Yule now, in case my ankle still isn’t healed by then.
So there you have it, Rosalina as I made her, in less than 2 weeks I might add! For once, I left no sewing for later - whatever needs fixing is made of foam - and I made it fit me the first time around (no big adjustments needed and requiring my sweetheart’s help), I was comfortable and the sleeves were neither too tight nor too big. Yep! That dress is perfect, and I am happy!














