Progress Report: Finished Travel Bustle

Yippee! Yesterday, I somehow found the time to assemble (and finish) my Travel Bustle and I wanted to share some pictures with you.

Gwenyver's Travel Bustle - Side view

Gwenyver's Travel Bustle - Back view

Well that came out nice, don't you think? And I only broke one needle sewing through all the layers. I hope it gives my Bustle skirt enough support. I can at least tell you it is very comfortable to wear.

Every layer consists of fabric, fusing and lining, and each layer is gathered separately, making it very thick to sew through. The belt is 2.75 metres of very wide (22 mm) double fold bias tape which is meant for quilt binding. Sewing the four layers of pleated fabric to the bias tape was very hard. In some places, the tape twisted a little. I would rather have had it perfectly straight, but too bad. It's only underwear, and it is only for me (if it was for a customer or a gift, I would make it perfect).

My most recent sewing machine had no problem sewing through all of the skirt layers of my "Water" Irish Dance Solo Dress, but it broke while I was adding a piece of elastic to one of my Baby's PJ. Go figure. My older machine has been fixed by my Dad, but it makes a strange squeaky noise now. I'm afraid the timing pelt might be due to be replaced.

Lets hope my machines survive, I still have to make the bustle skirt, the bodice, four stockings, a tree skirt and oh yes, the curtains for my Baby's room that I've been supposed to make since Easter.

Progress Report: Red Taffeta Bustle Skirt and Travel Bustle

Hooray! I have managed to cut my bustle skirt from the four metres I had even thought the pattern asked for seven! It took a lot of puzzling and figuring out, but I managed. Of course, this means I had to cut my fabric by aligning my grain-line to the weft instead of the warp, but as the fabric is already stabilized by the diamond patterned tucks, I doubt it will be a problem.

So I have an underskirt:


And a bustled back:

I also have belt pieces cut, but I didn't photograph them.

I haven't cut the apron yet, but as I showed you before, it is already pretty much done. I'll mostly have to add pleats to the sides and I think that will be all.

Now concerning the Travel Bustle, I have also cut my fabric.

The bustle will consist of four layers of gathered fabric. If it comes out well, I'll make a tutorial for everyone to make their own if they wish to.

This cute patterned quilter's cotton was leftover from a piece I had bought to make practice garment in sewing class (I am sticking to my "it must come from the Stash" rule for this project).

To give you an idea of what the finished bustle will look like, I have layered my pieces, alternating between the fabric and the lining so you really see the different layers.

And that's that for now. Next step is fusing, sewing and finding some fabric for the bodice.

And since I have a lot of baking to do right before Christmas, I have to be done by next week-end if I intend to wear this outfit at all. No pressure.

Project: Victorian Bustle Gown

Ever since I mentioned Rose Tyler's 1869 outfit, I've been itching to make a bustle gown inspired by it. Believe me, I've tried to dissuade myself from embarking on such a project for the Holidays (on such short notice), but I sometimes lie awake at night thinking about how I would make it.

I have in my fabric stash two burgundy red taffeta panels with tucked diamond motif: they were drapes leftover at a co-worker's apartment by the previous tenant and since they did not match her taste or decor, she gave them to me (lots of co-workers tend to give me fabric in such ways). Each panel is approximately 140 centimetres wide by two metres long.

And look, there is even a matching pointed valence with beaded trim that will require minimum modification to become the apron part of the bustle skirt! (I have folded the sides for the photo, but it is more than wide enough.)

I happen to own Burda 7880, and that is the pattern I was thinking of using for the skirt (as I read on another Blog, try to see past the pink).

Burda 7880 - Front and Back view

There is one small problem: the pattern requires about seven metres of fabric for the skirt and bustled over skirt and I only have four. But I thought maybe since I didn't need the apron, I could somehow manage.

Yesterday morning, being unable to sleep due to the pain my latest growing wisdom tooth is giving me, I decided to go for it and cut the pattern pieces I needed to see if I could fit them on the pieces of fabric I have. I lucked out. I would need an extra metre and I don't have one.

So now I have a few options: I could make the under skirt in another fabric: I probably have enough black satin out there somewhere, or I could try to use this three toned shaded fabric leftover from a Bustier Project in Draping class (but I might not have enough again).

I have also considered using the technique used by Katherine in the making of the foundation skirt of her Pink and Green Bustle Dress, that is to attach the tubed underskirt at about hip level to another fabric which is shaped over the bustle. This other fabric will be hidden by the draped bustle.

Or, I could drape my own skirt by making a tube and pleating it over a bustle.

Speaking of bustle, I don't have one and if I intend to wear this ensemble at my Mom's for Christmas, I have to be able to move and sit easily. Fear not, I have found the perfect solution.

1868-1887 Traveling Bustle by Mantua Maker

It's a Traveling Bustle! Just like a bustle, it will give your skirts the right shape, but unlike a bustle, it has no steels or hardware and can lay flat or be rolled tight for traveling (from an 1871 Harper's Bazar)! Mantua Maker has a pattern for a Traveling Bustle, but I also found that Dre-ah over at 9 Degrees of Yarn and Me has made one without a pattern and it looks quite good (see Bustle Appropriate Petticoat and Traveling Bustle Complete). From her measurements, I can figure out how to make my own.

As for the bodice, I have to look at my many patterns, but I think it will be made of black velvet and be some sort of short sleeved bustier type of thing.

So that is what is brewing inside my head. I don't know yet if I'll actually get around to it as I have a few things I need to make first, but it sure is tempting! The only rule I have about it is that all fabrics need to come from my stash. The only thing I am allowing myself to buy is hook-and-eye tape and maybe some trim.